OK, I, and the Comcast tech both separately ( at different times ) ran an ethernet cable from my PC directly into the modem, bypassing the RT-N66U wifi router. We couldn't get it to work.
Something to do with setting up ip settings or something.
Hmmm...Does this site accurately describe how to do this? Where I shouldnt have to change settings on my PC?:
I had a friend in Florida whom had a very similar issue and him and his family almost went nuts trying to have the Company get it fixed. I live in the Caribbean, and they found my connection is better than theirs when they connect to me in multiplayer games so they asked if i get bufferbloat and they described their problem and after talking to them and then they called the company again, the issue was on the connection at their house and on one of the company's nodes. After they tech guys changed that their speed went up and they configured the QoS and everything worked.
Connection directly to the modem and "not getting it to work" indicates it is either their modem/connection/configuration or your PC as auto DHCP should just take affect and i would suggest you try another PC directly to the modem and also try your PC, that didn't work. by a friend's house to see if ti is the PC then contact them with the results, hear what they say and if it is positive then go with the flow and or suggest what about the connection on the house/pole/wherever.
I have the TM822g and was told by one of the service techs that it won't support DOCISIS 3.1 no matter what firmware is put on it and most of the times the company's support team on the phone only just reinstall the firmware that is specified as to be used and that firmware isn't current. He said most of the times the issue is on the nodes but he wouldn't elaborate.
I had a friend in Florida whom had a very similar issue and him and his family almost went nuts trying to have the Company get it fixed. I live in the Caribbean, and they found my connection is better than theirs when they connect to me in multiplayer games so they asked if i get bufferbloat and they described their problem and after talking to them and then they called the company again, the issue was on the connection at their house and on one of the company's nodes. After they tech guys changed that their speed went up and they configured the QoS and everything worked.
Connection directly to the modem and "not getting it to work" indicates it is either their modem/connection/configuration or your PC as auto DHCP should just take affect and i would suggest you try another PC directly to the modem and also try your PC, that didn't work. by a friend's house to see if ti is the PC then contact them with the results, hear what they say and if it is positive then go with the flow and or suggest what about the connection on the house/pole/wherever.
I have the TM822g and was told by one of the service techs that it won't support DOCISIS 3.1 no matter what firmware is put on it and most of the times the company's support team on the phone only just reinstall the firmware that is specified as to be used and that firmware isn't current. He said most of the times the issue is on the nodes but he wouldn't elaborate.
Hope you get it solved.
Well I'm not paying for DOCSIS 3.1 but their system is now phasing into it, so I'm not sure how, or if that affects the TM822G. But yesterday when we drove down the street, one corner had a whole pile of cut cable lying there. All kinds of random pieces.
I've also noticed that my streaming in my bedroom gets fine, between when I go to bed around 1 AM and 6:40 every morning. Something happens at 6:40 - people waking up and starting to suck up bandwidth again? It also seems like a maintenance hour on Saturday mornings, between about 5:30 and 6:40 and they keep shutting down service then.
If you wait, you wouldn't have to pay for DOCSIS 3.1 as that is the standard they are moving to and it will affect the TG822 just fine as the real issues are on the server side and they damn well know it but will not admit it.
That time when your stream gets good is probably when people go to sleep thus creating less load on the service which further ensures the issue is on the node/box, which one you will not be able to tell only they can when they check the levels.
My ISP also tries to force you to purchase faster plans like our AVS(advanced video service) while stalling on fixing the older ones but people in my country just won't stand for it so they have to fix it.
If this keeps frustrating you just look into getting service from another provider if there is one because you won't be able to beat them by yourself, it would take a large group to make enough noise for them to do something.
If you wait, you wouldn't have to pay for DOCSIS 3.1 as that is the standard they are moving to and it will affect the TG822 just fine as the real issues are on the server side and they damn well know it but will not admit it.
That time when your stream gets good is probably when people go to sleep thus creating less load on the service which further ensures the issue is on the node/box, which one you will not be able to tell only they can when they check the levels.
My ISP also tries to force you to purchase faster plans like our AVS(advanced video service) while stalling on fixing the older ones but people in my country just won't stand for it so they have to fix it.
If this keeps frustrating you just look into getting service from another provider if there is one because you won't be able to beat them by yourself, it would take a large group to make enough noise for them to do something.
It's like so many things. One day we will get a notice of a class action lawsuit.
Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Posts: 270 Location: Minnesota
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 17:26 Post subject:
MamaBear2017 wrote:
OK, I, and the Comcast tech both separately ( at different times ) ran an ethernet cable from my PC directly into the modem, bypassing the RT-N66U wifi router. We couldn't get it to work.
Something to do with setting up ip settings or something.
Hmmm...Does this site accurately describe how to do this? Where I shouldnt have to change settings on my PC?:
If your direct connection PC to the modem isn't receiving a public IPv4 (or IPv6) address (if its a Windows computer, you can check in the Network and Sharing center):
Make sure your Internet Protocol Version 4 (and 6) settings are set to 'Obtain an IP address automatically'
(Network and Sharing center>Change Adapter Settings [to the left]>right-click network interface>Properties> Highlight IPv4/IPv6>click Properties button)
If it happens to be a Mac: Apple menu > System Preference> Network> DHCP
Another thing is to have the computer on and hit the reset button on your modem. It will reset and hopefully see what different device is connected (PC instead of router). If the address you receive on your PC is a 169.xxx.xxx.xxx (IPv4) or only fe80.xxxx.(etc.) (IPv6) even if its set to obtain an address automatically, the modem is not providing an address to it..
This is just standard troubleshooting and after all of this, would obviously be a sign of connection issues out of your reach. You mentioned there was possible maintenance (cables) in your area so that could be a component of the issue, but if you go to 192.168.100.1 in a browser from the PC connected to the modem, please let us know here or here what they are. _________________ LATEST DD-WRT FW IS LOCATED HERE: https://dd-wrt.com/support/other-downloads/?path=betas%2F
Well it's been a real odyssey since the weekend. I actually gave up on the RT-N66U and picked up a LinkSys WRT 1900ACS. I attempted to install it from Sunday afternoon into today. The signal is magnificently strong. In my bedroom, which is about 50 feet from the router in the kitchen, the RT-N66U signal has been around -80db. This router was around -25db!
Unfortunately, we were never able to get it to connect right, on wifi. I spent literally hours, with Comcast and LinkSys techs. We finally did an ethernet connection and that would only partially work. This fiasco went on until today, when I spent 2 hours and 45 minutes on the phone with an amazingly patient LinkSys support woman in Philippines.
We never got it to work with wifi, though we exhausted every possible troubleshooting attempt. I can only describe her efforts as heroic.
But what we did find out was that the address of the MODEM that we were ethernet connected with, finally, to see if my Comcast was even working, was 192.168.1.1, which is also the address of the wifi router, so it was messed up. She had me change that on my PC to automatically get the DNS ( is it called? ) and at least the ethernet finally worked, so I could salvage my emails from yesterday and not have upset clients for my part time home business. Kudos to the lady!
But in the end, they're giving me a RMA to return the LinkSys for a new one. We were never able to properly connect it on wifi. We tried everything and it kept turning down the connection on 2.4GHz while 5GHz was connecting but not getting everything on the web - only some pages, and no email.
But OH what a signal that thing has! I'm excited about getting one that works!
So now I have to set up the RT-N66U again, just so we can use streaming in the nearest bedroom, and will still have reloading problems in my bedroom, because of the weak signal.
By the way, with ethernet finally working into the TM822, the speed is now something like 67 megs download speed, BUT when run on DSL Speedtest, the Bufferbloat is still ruining it, and it's jittery when in actual use.
The good news is, I think that the WRT 1900 ACS compensates automatically for Bufferbloat, so if we can get a new one going, it could be screamingly fast!
I would let your ISP know that you want a new modem once it doesn't cost anything, just say you find your own to be faulty. See if a different modem will work.
It works! We were on the phone for 2 hrs and about 45 minutes and I guess we got tired.
So she told me to change that IPV4 setting to auto, but it still didn't work. Well I was about to make lunch and thought about checking IPV6! I set that to auto and now the WRT1900ACS works GREAT!
We're logged in on both PC's on 5GHz and both TV extenders are up and working! Yay!
And the signal strength, which was -80db on front of my bedroom extender, is now around -55db! It MUST be the beamforming that this thing does!
AND I understand that this AC class router will automatically get rid of the bufferbloat. ( isn't that what the WRT does? )
Well apparently not, with the bufferbloat, but with this kind of signal strength and speed now, I'm not sure how much it will matter? Anyone, on that?
Another question I have ( I'm not a networking tech ) is whether I should be able to connect simultaneously on both bands, for faster speed? I've tried connecting on 2.4GHZ at the same time, from my PC and it won't work, but we have one of our TV adapters that's a NETGEAR WN2500RP DUAL BAND WIFI ADAPTER, and I'm wondering if that can go simultaneous on both bands? Or is it even necessary?
It works! We were on the phone for 2 hrs and about 45 minutes and I guess we got tired.
So she told me to change that IPV4 setting to auto, but it still didn't work. Well I was about to make lunch and thought about checking IPV6! I set that to auto and now the WRT1900ACS works GREAT!
We're logged in on both PC's on 5GHz and both TV extenders are up and working! Yay!
And the signal strength, which was -80db on front of my bedroom extender, is now around -55db! It MUST be the beamforming that this thing does!
AND I understand that this AC class router will automatically get rid of the bufferbloat. ( isn't that what the WRT does? )
Well apparently not, with the bufferbloat, but with this kind of signal strength and speed now, I'm not sure how much it will matter? Anyone, on that?
Another question I have ( I'm not a networking tech ) is whether I should be able to connect simultaneously on both bands, for faster speed? I've tried connecting on 2.4GHZ at the same time, from my PC and it won't work, but we have one of our TV adapters that's a NETGEAR WN2500RP DUAL BAND WIFI ADAPTER, and I'm wondering if that can go simultaneous on both bands? Or is it even necessary?
Anyone know?
But I'm thrilled right now!
No router, at the moment, will auto cancel bufferbloat, either your ISP will have to properly configure their servers and that won't happen or you will have to configure your QoS in order to get rid of it.
You can't connect to both the 2.4 and 5GHz on the NIC(network interface card) you can choose which one you want to connect to though.
Glad you have a better connection now, next step, to research configuring your WIFI for faster speeds.
Thank you all then, for all of your help with these things. Will see how it goes with this new WRT1900ACS then.
I thought I read that DD-WRT firmware handled that best, which was why I was here for the other router, but given the events of the last few days, I'm doubting my sanity anyway.
I'm in the Denver area and the bufferbloat is horrible here, with Comcast, and they apparently won't fix it, so...
But any setting suggestions that could maximize things would be appreciated.
I just tried a blanket reduction of bandwidth, below what I've been seeing now, but it did little.
Bufferbloat is a problem around the world once you don't have fiber, why IDK but the only thing that helps reduce it is when you enter a little less than you actual download and upload speed provided by the ISP in your QoS.
If you don't know your actual speeds then contact the ISP and request that information or, i guess, look on your bill, don't know how the billing is there but here they give you your package and any payper view shows you purchased with a total and then you can look up the prices.
But an interesting development: A guy knocked on the door the other day, and asked permission to go in our yard, asked if we had any animals, etc. He was from a fiber company contractor. I asked who he was laying the fiber for and he said Century Link.
So fiber doesn't have bufferbloat? Hmmmm...
We dropped Century Link years ago, for Comcast, because Century Link was still running 60 year old lead foil wrapped phone lines to our house, with DSL on them, and every time it would get cold and damp, we'd lose PHONE service and everything.
But fiber? Hmmmm.....
Wonder if it will COST less too? For Comcast 25 meg service and Voice, we're paying around $80 a month.
