(and i hard-reset both of them before manual configure with the 'erase nvram' stuff)
Do a proper 30/30/30 hard reset. I have found the erase nvram doesn't always work properly. You need to get a new password page on entry. If you didn't, it did not work.
(and i hard-reset both of them before manual configure with the 'erase nvram' stuff)
Do a proper 30/30/30 hard reset. I have found the erase nvram doesn't always work properly. You need to get a new password page on entry. If you didn't, it did not work.
i did get to the password page entry ;)
but on the last page... someone said to try another build... any suggestions? (because it seems like for the routers i have everyone claims 11296 is the best, which is what im running)
EDIT: looks like the speed etc just went out the window and now it's just real slow so i went back to my old setup. ill just wait until a fix comes out for these types of setup's before attempting to use repeater bridge etc again. _________________ Primary Router: Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 /w dd-wrt.v24_mini_generic (r46640 May 13th 2021) ; new Panasonic capacitors Feb 11th 2020 | Backup Router: Linksys WRT54GS v6 /w dd-wrt.v24_micro_generic (r46640 May 13th 2021)
With the Tx power set to 45 mW, the problem came back again this morning as soon as my wireless client did an iTunes podcast download; the data rate dropped down to 2 Mbps and stuck there.
I've moved the Tx power down to 35 mW to see if that helps. But I'm seriously unimpressed with this hardware, and will be replacing it shortly.
(edit)
Same problem at 35 mW. This hardware is going back.
I'm surprised -- is nobody else running into this problem?
I would try a different channel and also enble Bluetooth Coexistence Mode under Wireless -> Advanced Settings _________________ Home Network on Telus 1Gb PureFibre - 10GbE Copper Backbone
2x R7800 - Gateway & WiFi & 3xWireGuard - DDWRT r53562 Std k4.9
Off Site 1
R7000 - Gateway & WiFi & WireGuard - DDWRT r54517 Std
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Off Site 2
R7000 - Gateway & WiFi - DDWRT r54517 Std
E2000 - Wired ISP IPTV PVR Blocker - DDWRT r35531
I had a similar problem, but directly with wireless speed. I was unable to use the wireless at all, I had to get wired to be able to work! So after applying what redhawk suggested It worked perfect!.
redhawk0 wrote:
A few things to try.
On the Wireless>>Advanced tab
Change your Tx power from the default of 70 down to something in the 35-50mW range.
Disable CTS protection, FrameBurst, and Afterburner
Set the Preamble to Auto instead of Long.
Next....change the IP filter settings on the Administration tab to
Max Ports = 4096
TCP/UDP timeouts = 120 each.
The ports shouldn't effect the quality of your Wireless but it can reduce the router crash problem that we also see so often.
redhawk
I have my wireless fully working as if I'm wired connected.
I think the 1mbps is just a bug right now. Compared to turning down the antenna to 28 and getting 54mbps compared 70 and 1mbps, the 70 and 1mbps is MUCH faster. I honestly believe that this is just a bug with the WRT54G2 hardware and DD-WRT.
Joined: 29 May 2008 Posts: 243 Location: United Kingdom
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:25 Post subject:
Lkr wrote:
I think the 1mbps is just a bug right now. Compared to turning down the antenna to 28 and getting 54mbps compared 70 and 1mbps, the 70 and 1mbps is MUCH faster. I honestly believe that this is just a bug with the WRT54G2 hardware and DD-WRT.
In my WRT54G2 on 70nW i get around 5.5mpbs and drops to 2mpbs and goes up to 5.5mpbs but dosnt happen all the time now and again im running windows 7 build 7100 with the netgear wpn111 and the router is quite abit fair away, Signal quality is around 9%/18% in the status. Been though the channel numbers and the best channel is 6
-------
If i changed the 70 mW into say 80mW Would this give me a higher signal? As the router is fair away?
Or the low i go the higher? _________________ TP-Link TL-WDR3600 v1 [EU]: r36330 (07/16/18 )
D-Link DIR-615 D2 [EU]: r36330 (07/16/18 )
Mikrotik RB750r2 (OpenWrt 17.01.4)
EE BrightBox 1 aka A4001N (OpenWrt 17.01.4)
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Joined: 04 Jan 2007 Posts: 11564 Location: Wherever the wind blows- North America
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 13:36 Post subject:
No...higher on the G2v1 won't help. it introduces too much noise with those crappy internal antennas. These units have very limited range.
As for the GS...totally different animal (hardware)...you can take the GS up in Tx power (keeping it below 100mW) to get a bit more range....but the configuration settings should help you.
redhawk _________________ The only stupid question....is the unasked one.
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:23 Post subject: FIX for this problem here
I'm a longtime lurker and dd-wrt user, first time poster.
I have the solution that works great for me on this problem, I want to share it so someone else can hopefully benefit.
I just got a couple of WRT54G2 v1 routers to use as a wireless bridge to my home's basement. The only internet-enabled cable ports are on the 2nd floor of the house, and there's a basement desktop that needs internet, so I figured this would be a good route.
I had the same problem as others posting here, that when I started a large transfer, the rate would drop to 1, 2, or 5.5 Mbps. I've set up many bridges before and never had this problem until I was using _TWO_ WRT54G2's (I've had G2s on one end before with no problem).
I tried everything everyone mentioned here, including turning off CTS Protection, Frame Burst, Afterburner (of course), changing the Preamble, lowering the transmit power, using different channels, turning on Bluetooth coexistence, turning off WMM, using no auth vs using WPA2, different builds ranging from SP1 to pre-SP2 12966, 30/30/30 resets... EVERYTHING. While some combinations worked better than others, the rate would still drop on large transfers.
****THE SOLUTION**** Under Wireless > Advanced, on the AP set the Fixed Rate to Auto if it isn't already. On the BRIDGE, set a fixed rate of the highest that you can still keep a responsive and full-speed connection, for me it was 18Mbps. This is fine because my internet is 12Mbps Comcast with 15-18Mbps Powerboost, so I'll never need more than that.
I would just start with the next step up from your internet connection speed, and see how high you can take it while still getting a fast connection. When I set mine to 24Mbps, it still worked but was slower. Here's what I found from setting different rates on both ends:
AP Auto / Client 18Mbps - Tests at 17Mbps download, 4Mbps upload
AP 18 / Client 18 - 11 down, 3 up
AP Auto / Client 24 - 6 down, 1 up
AP 24 / Client 24 - Can barely get the speed test page loaded
AP Auto/36/48/54, Client 36/48/54 - Doesn't work
AP Auto / Client Auto - works initially at 54 and tests at 16-17, but then drops to 1, 2, or 5.5Mbps
Obviously the top line is what I'm using now - this is also nice because other wireless clients can still get 54Mbps. The connection is always responsive and always tests at 16-17Mbps download.
Something else of note for me is that I tried tons of different TX power values on both sides, ranging from 28 to 71mW. I ended up with 71 because I get 50% signal with an SNR of 39. Other values ended up giving anywhere from 30-45% signal with an SNR of 25-35. Also, the SNR gets larger and the signal better about 20 seconds after the routers connect, so don't judge your TX power effectiveness immediately after changing it.
Channel - as others said, do a site survey to find a channel far away from other used channels in your neighborhood - I would guess most neighbors would be using 6 since that's the default for a lot of routers, so probably 1 or 11 - I ended up using Auto and it changes between 1 and 11.
My settings are:
AP:
---
IP 192.168.1.1
Channel: Auto
Fixed Rate: Auto
Bridge:
-------
IP 192.168.1.2
Gateway+DNS: 192.168.1.1
Fixed Rate: 18Mbps
BOTH sides:
-----------
G-Only
WPA2 AES
CTS Protection: disabled
Frame Burst: disabled
Beacon interval: 100ms
Preamble: Long
TX Power: 71
Afterburner: off
BT Coexist: off
WMM: off
Okay, this post is long, sorry. I hope someone in my situation can get something out of it.
PS: I wish there was a brick-and-mortar store in the Minneapolis / St Paul area that sold original WRT54G v1 or v2's.
No...higher on the G2v1 won't help. it introduces too much noise with those crappy internal antennas. These units have very limited range.
As for the GS...totally different animal (hardware)...you can take the GS up in Tx power (keeping it below 100mW) to get a bit more range....but the configuration settings should help you.
redhawk
I got the WRT54G2v1 as well - I had only problems when using SP2 firmware. When I downgraded to v24 SP1 [Stable] Build 10020 - micro. Then the speed issues was gone - and transfer rate went straight to 54 mbps - no 2 mbps or shit like that.. Something must have been implemented wrong in the SP2 builds of dd-wrt firmware.
After leaving my WRT54G2 v1 running permamently i've noticed the Wireless rate drops right off frequently. None of my other routers do this. Whenever i notice the rate is so low, i just set the TX power to another figure then set it back to 28mW. 28 is just the figure i've always used on all my routers so i leave this one at 28 out of habit.
edit- the main reason i know it's dropped off is when G/F tries to watch internet TV via wifi and the stream grinds to a halt. _________________ 2 node (v23 sp2) WDS network over WPA2/AES comprising 2x Buffalo WHR-G54S's.