WRT54G v1 Power and Diag light stay solid

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joeschmuckatelli
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Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 136
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 20:30    Post subject: Reply with quote
tab1293 wrote:
Is it worth it to get a $20 jtag adapter when I can probably get another router for $40? I don't want to buy this jtag and then not be able to unbrick my router.

Well that's my question to you and only you can answer this. If you will be playing around with routers and changing the firmware to third party firmware, there is always a chance you will brick the device. You bricked yours and that was during the 30/30/30. It's very handy to have a JTAG available when needed provided you learn how to use it. Maybe you don't want to fuss with it, that's fine too. It may not be worth your time.

If you can find a WRT replacment, go buy it and work on the WRT54 when you have the time. Building your own JTAG is easy and finding a friend to help you out makes things go better.
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tab1293
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Joined: 03 Jul 2010
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 14:52    Post subject: Reply with quote
joeschmuckatelli wrote:

2. 10 connector header with ribbon cable connected. These are often used for USB connections from the motherboard to a rear connected USB port and should be pleantiful as well at one of these old computer shops. (Could not locate anything at RadioShack.com)


These wires
http://www.pcityourself.com/images/content/building/frontPanelAudioUSB.jpg

That go here? http://www.celtnet.org.uk/images/front_panel_headers.gif

They have only 9 holes, would that match with a 12 pin header thats needed for the JTAG? And I would have to buy ribbon cable and wire it correctly from the DSUB to this USB type connector correct?
joeschmuckatelli
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Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 136
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 15:15    Post subject: Reply with quote
Here are the pins you need and the USB connection fits the bill.

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Image:Insert_pins.jpg

And you really need to read and understand this link that you provided. If you can't follow it then I don't recommend you do it because you will be lost the entire time. http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Debrick_Routers_Using_JTAG_Cable
tab1293
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Joined: 03 Jul 2010
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 15:24    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ok I will try my best to understand it. But I am not using those solderless pins. So should I solder a 12 pin header or a 10 pin header to the JTAG port? And once its soldered its ok if I just put the whole the connector on?

I am just confused because the actual JTAG port on the circuit board has 12 holes. But it seems that its fine to use only a 10 pin header to make the connection.

EDIT: Also found this guide http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Make_a_Simple_Nonbuffered_FTA_JTAG_Cable

but comparing to this http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/files/basis_for_making_jtag_cable_770.jpg

Pin 5 is used in the connection. I'm confused Confused
fggs
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Joined: 28 Jan 2008
Posts: 1716

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 15:47    Post subject: Reply with quote
For Linksys jtag you only need pin 3,5,7,9 and pin 6 to ground. You can just ignore pins 11 and 12, that's why some people say to use 10-pin header instead of 12-pin.

Last edited by fggs on Mon Jul 05, 2010 16:04; edited 1 time in total
tab1293
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Joined: 03 Jul 2010
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 15:56    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ok guys thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it. One last thing (I think)

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Image:0.jpg
vs.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/files/basis_for_making_jtag_cable_770.jpg

The tiao image has pin 5 wired while the dd-wrt image does not. The connections aren't the same in the two pictures either. Which one should I follow or does it not really matter?
fggs
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 28 Jan 2008
Posts: 1716

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 16:06    Post subject: Reply with quote
Follow the dd-wrt image, you can pick the ground, except pin 12 as showed on image. I already correct my post above, it's pins 3,5,7,9.
joeschmuckatelli
DD-WRT User


Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 136
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 21:57    Post subject: Reply with quote
I agree, stay with the DD-WRT JTAG. That's a nice simple schematic as well.

If you don't want to try and mount a full header, because remember that I said you must remove all the solder from the holes first (that's the proper way), the easiest way it to mount each pin individually to the board because you don't need to remove the solder from the hole, however you may need to clean up a little on the backside. Tin the pin before soldering it to the board. If you cannot find any pins you can use a regular paperclip straightened out as your pins. Make them about 3/4" long and you can trim the excess after they are soldered in place. The paperclip wire is also soft enough to bend the pins so they align with the connector. And for the connector, you can use any type of cable connector you have laying around that will mate with whatever you soldered in. I don't want you to think you are limited to a specific type of connector just to connect your JTAG and get your router operational again. Maybe the second time around that you needed a JTAG you will make a nice a neat looking device.

Good Luck
tab1293
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Joined: 03 Jul 2010
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 22:40    Post subject: Reply with quote
I found an IDC connector that has 16 holes (2x8) but one of the holes (2nd to last on the bottom row) is covered. This connector is already connected to a ribbon cable.

I bought a D-SUB connector, its case, and the transistors. My question is does it matter which of the individuals wires of the ribbon cable I connect to the D-SUB connector?

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Image:11.jpg

The ribbon cable that is attached to my IDC connector has 16 individual wires as compared to that picture's 10. How does the wire of the ribbon cable match up to the pin numbers?
redhawk0
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Joined: 04 Jan 2007
Posts: 10882
Location: Wherever the wind blows- North America

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 22:46    Post subject: Reply with quote
tab1293 wrote:
Is it worth it to get a $20 jtag adapter when I can probably get another router for $40? I don't want to buy this jtag and then not be able to unbrick my router.


I suggest you take the #20 and put it toward a new router....these old V1's are DOOOOGGGGG slow compared to the newer units.

Yes...you may need a JTAG cable someday...but believe me...if you get a decent router and put the recommended FW on the unit...you shouldn't need it. (although there is never a 100% guarantee)....but I have an RT-N16 unit now as my main AP unit and have never been happier with my $77 investment.

redhawk

_________________
I currently test dd-wrt on Asus, Buffalo, Linksys, and Netgear. Too many to list.

Looking for more test units (newer models) for the project...got a brick?...PM me to make a donation. (USA) A donation is not a debricking service....it is a way to "Give back" to the dd-wrt project.

I do NOT provide personal assistance through chat or phone....so please don't ask.
tab1293
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Joined: 03 Jul 2010
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 23:55    Post subject: Reply with quote
With that being said redhawk, what router is the most bang for your buck and its completely supported (least likely to brick) by dd-wrt?

I would appreciate if someone answered my other question because I think I am going to try to build this cable regardless of if I get another router.
redhawk0
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 04 Jan 2007
Posts: 10882
Location: Wherever the wind blows- North America

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 0:40    Post subject: Reply with quote
tab1293 wrote:
With that being said redhawk, what router is the most bang for your buck and its completely supported (least likely to brick) by dd-wrt?

I would appreciate if someone answered my other question because I think I am going to try to build this cable regardless of if I get another router.


Like I said...I love my RT-N16 unit. Works great, lots of memory and fast CPU.

Regular price is under $100 and on sale they go for around $75-80

Open Box for $65 plus shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320038R&cm_re=rt-n16-_-33-320-038R-_-Product

redhawk

_________________
I currently test dd-wrt on Asus, Buffalo, Linksys, and Netgear. Too many to list.

Looking for more test units (newer models) for the project...got a brick?...PM me to make a donation. (USA) A donation is not a debricking service....it is a way to "Give back" to the dd-wrt project.

I do NOT provide personal assistance through chat or phone....so please don't ask.


Last edited by redhawk0 on Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:05; edited 1 time in total
joeschmuckatelli
DD-WRT User


Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 136
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 0:41    Post subject: Reply with quote
tab1293 wrote:
I found an IDC connector that has 16 holes (2x8) but one of the holes (2nd to last on the bottom row) is covered. This connector is already connected to a ribbon cable.

I bought a D-SUB connector, its case, and the transistors. My question is does it matter which of the individuals wires of the ribbon cable I connect to the D-SUB connector?

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Image:11.jpg

The ribbon cable that is attached to my IDC connector has 16 individual wires as compared to that picture's 10. How does the wire of the ribbon cable match up to the pin numbers?


Yes, it does matter which wire on the ribbon cable goes where. On the IDC connector you should find an arrow or other marking which indicates pin 1. The ribbon cable on that edge of the connector is for pin 1. The next conductor is pin 2 and so forth. If you are unsure, insert the pins you plan to solder to the router into the connector (like in your JTAG link a few posts ago, pins 3, 5, 7, 9 and 6 I think it was) use your volt/ohm meter and check for continuity between the pins and the ribbon cable end. And I suspect you bought 100 ohm resistors, not transistors. If so, I think you have all the components to make your JTAG. Remember, most advice is to keep it under 6" long, I know my experience is under 12" for a unbuffered JTAG but use your best judgement. If you can get away with 6", I'd do it.

If you buy another Router, do not buy a D-Link DIR-825. They suck with respect to wireless power (range).
redhawk0
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 04 Jan 2007
Posts: 10882
Location: Wherever the wind blows- North America

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:04    Post subject: Reply with quote
Use this one.

http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/files/basis_for_making_jtag_cable_770.jpg

It's been working for me for years.


redhawk

_________________
I currently test dd-wrt on Asus, Buffalo, Linksys, and Netgear. Too many to list.

Looking for more test units (newer models) for the project...got a brick?...PM me to make a donation. (USA) A donation is not a debricking service....it is a way to "Give back" to the dd-wrt project.

I do NOT provide personal assistance through chat or phone....so please don't ask.
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