After hours of trying different versions of software i found a page: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Installation#Upgrading_to_a_Newer_Version_of_DD-WRT.
And to revert anything back, i installed firmware, i previously used (it was r27858). Reset to factory defaults and install latest beta (r30605). But after applying my default set of settings it won't boot again. So i tried some more builds and found, that r30432 works well for me.
My default set of settings: 2.4+5Ghz wifi + 'guest' network, UPnP, QoS, SSH and maybe some other features.
So my suggestion: try use r30432 build. It works for me well.
UPD: If anyone need photos of router board or serial port - just ask
UPD: If anyone need photos of router board or serial port - just ask
Can you post a pic with the pins and which ones did you use?? I ordered 2 other different USB-Serial cables and still can't get the return to work!
I can type in the CFE console, but can't get it to accept the command! When I press ENTER, all it does it bring the cursor the beginning of the line, but won't enter the command..
The cable I ordered has connectors on the end for connecting to Raspberry Pi. I plan to cut these off, then strip off a little plastic on the end, twist the wire, then place inside the serial connection holes on the board and hopefully avoid having to solder. Did you do the same?
Thanks for blazing the trail on this for the rest of us and sharing your experience.
Everything is 3.3V. Do not use higher voltage connectors on your usb-adapter!
I used only three pins: RX, TX, GND. No other need on both sides. Of course, as it serial port, you should cross-connect RX-TX pins (like TX on USB-adaptor should be connected to RX on router's board).
Xentrk: you can just cut your cable (as i did). Or you can braze pins to your router . My adapter also has a cable for raspberry pi. But no one can stop us from cutting it, right?
Vills,
Thank You Very Much!! I am very grateful you posted the pics and provided the labeling of the connections. That is a big help.
My cables arrived at my USA address and they should arrive here in Thailand in two to three weeks. I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for confirming you cut the ends off. I went to a store the other day that sells the Raspberry Pi. I would have thought they would also have the usb to ttl cable. But no luck. That is they way things ae here in Thailand sometimes.
I learned my lesson. I will always enter my configs manually after performing an update and never try to restore using a config back up from a prior version.
I could not find any other pics on the net and I am sure your posting will help others as well for many years to come.
I will follow-up in a few weeks and hopefully report success on the de-bricking of my DIR-880L.
I experienced the same problems you had. All version later than r30432 caused my router to be inaccessible!
I guess this information should be forwarded to the DD-WRT team.
Just my information what I did to unbrick:
I bought a TTL to USB cable (which can be used to program a Rasberry Pi). My cable has four
"connectors" which I didn't cut! I bought a standard pin header with 5 pins and connected the
cable to the pin header. I then "plugged" the pin header into the router. By just "jamming" the pin header a bit, I got contact and could connect without any problems.
Thanks for the tip about the standard pin headers. I saw those in another youtube video after I ordered my USB to TTL cable. I'll see if I can find them around town here in Chiang Mai. Otherwise, I may have a friend bring back here upon their return to Thailand from USA in mid-October. Or, cut up some paper clips and use them instead. My USB to TTL cable arrived at the local post office and hope to have it delivered tomorrow. I don't want to cut the cable now as a Raspberry Pi may be in my near future and it may come in handy.
After you made the serial connection, did you first flash with D-Link firmware followed by factory-to-ddwrt.bin followed by dir880-webflash.bin? The wiki says to use the factory stock firmware when recovering from a bad flash using a serial connection. Please let me know what worked for you.
I was able to flash okay with the Sep 9 r30605. It was the attempt of restoring my configs from a config backup from the June 24 r30016 that bricked my router.
the funny thing was, after successful deleting the nvram on the cfe, the router booted with
the last DD-WRT firmware I installed (the one that bricked the router). As I had the same
problems with versions later than r30432 (like vills mentioned), I downgraded to r30432
right from the version (bricked one) the router booted with. No need to first install an
offical DLink version and from there switch to DD-WRT. Now, with r30432 the router works
perfect. No problems when I do a reboot.
A short remark to the pin headers: If you get one, get one with 2,54 mm distance between
the pins. I bought a 5 pin pin header and pushed one back through the bracket. So I got a
nice working serial connector
I still can't get my CFE console to accept commands.
Even, using the pins you said... Actually, using the pins you posted here, I can only receive but not send (can only see the CFE console, but can't type).
I either burned the pins when I was trying or our DIR-880L are different.
Weird thing is I can see the CFE console and I can type, but return (to enter the command) won't work. The cursor will only move to the beginning of the line, but won't enter..
You are a little farther along than me. However, first confirm you are using the following settings when connecting through your SSH client as a serial connection:
Baud: 115200 Data bits: 8 Stop Bits: 1 Parity: none No Flow control
Cable to Serial Connections are as follows:
Cable----> Serial Board
Gnd------> Gnd
Tx(1)----> Rx(1)
Rx(1)----> Tx(1)
3.3Vcc---> Connection not required
Also, you can use an Ohm meter and test the connections through the pins. I can provide my readings if you want. That will determine that the issue is not with how the PINS are inserted into the holes on the board.
check if you have a good connection. With the pin header it works perfect.
I used my Win7 laptop with putty and the configuration Xentrk posted.
I immediately had the console output, hit madly Cntrl-C and after a few
seconds I got the cfe> prompt. The whole procedure incl. clearing nvram
took not longer than 5 minutes.
check if you have a good connection. With the pin header it works perfect.
I used my Win7 laptop with putty and the configuration Xentrk posted.
I immediately had the console output, hit madly Cntrl-C and after a few
seconds I got the cfe> prompt. The whole procedure incl. clearing nvram
took not longer than 5 minutes.
Thanks both for help,
Yes, I'm using the right COM settings, 115200, 8, N, 1, N.
And for some reason, I can only get the CFE console if I use the TX and 3.3v pins.
Here are my pins readings using an Ohm meter, using the pic you labeled:
RX: 0.001
3.3v: 3.289
GND: 0
TX: 3.285
I must have burned the RX pin, because it's basically not showing any volt?? And why I can still get it to type by connecting to the 3.3v?? I'm only using 2 pins, the TX and the 3.3v pin. I can type, when I hook the TXD of the cable to the 3.3v...
As you can see in this pic, I can get the CFE and I can type (I typed NVRAM) but pressend ENTER, just moves the cursor to the beginning of the line.
I found the 2.54 mm pins in some obscure alley here in Chiang Mai Thailand. The box containing the USB to TTL cable has cleared customs. Should be delivered early next week. I will purchase a solder iron later today.
Since I don’t have the pins soldered yet, I took some Ohm meter readings to try and help you with the issue. Here are my Ohm meter settings:
Ohm meter set at X1. No power:
Rx – Continuity light turns on a little dim. Top line of Ohm meter (Omega symbol) = 11
3.3 VCC – No Continuity light. Top line of Ohm meter is 34.
GND – Continuity light turns on very bright. Top line of Ohm meter goes all the way to the right, past 0.
Tx - Continuity light turns on a little dim. Top line of Ohm meter (Omega symbol) = 11
Ohm meter set at 10 DVC. Power on:
Rx – No reading
3.3 VCC – 3.3V
GND – No reading
Tx – 3.3V
Regarding the cursor issue. Is the insert key turned on on the keyboard? Not sure if that matters. You may also want to try another SSH client. I’ve been using MobaXterm Personal Edition the past week on another D-Link 880L that I support at a local Children’s Home.
My cable arrived after I typed my last post. I just returned home and plugged it into my USB to make sure the driver loaded properly. I still need to make a run to the hardware store for a solder iron. Maybe the port settings on the device don't match the settings you put into the SSH client?
Go into Device Manager, Select Ports (COM and LPT).
Then right click on the USB-to-Serial COMM Port.
Right click, properties, port settings.
Check to see if the settings match the right COM settings, 115200, 8, N, 1, N you entered in the SSH client.
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 15:31 Post subject: 3 Dlink 880s but one stuck in recovery loop
I own 3 Dlink 880Ls one in basement as the main router, and then two extended out to upper level and main floor.
My question is I loaded newest BS code on all three and one (The main router with WIFI disabled) is bricked. I have ordered the cable as shown in a post here, but I am kind of upset I have to go this far.
Anyone know what we can do to prevent something like this from next version? Why is two of my routers just fine, but one is bricked...
I followed the same process to upgrade, and I have been using DDWRT code as long as I can remember.
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