lol
I go into the firmware set "TX" for right then I
Test
then i go into the firmware again and set "TX" for left Then I Test.
if i test the right i test the right side of
the antenna diversity IC
if i test the left i test the left side of
the antenna diversity IC _________________ You can find me Here:
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Joined: 06 Jun 2006 Posts: 3763 Location: I'm the one on the plate.
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 0:09 Post subject:
Thanks ! You were beginning to worry me there for awhile.
_________________ http://69.175.13.131:8015 Streaming Week-End Disco. Station Ripper V 1.1 will do.
I don't play electronics teacher.
thats why i dont put EVERY step i do out here Only what is needed to do what works .
if thay wish to have more Information to a point i will help .
But after that thay can look it up and Teach themselves this way thay will be Able to do more with what thy learn at another time and feel Good about what thay accomplish by doing so.
it took me YEARS of hard work to get my radiotelephone licence .
Joined: 09 Jul 2006 Posts: 71 Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 4:06 Post subject:
Radioman193 wrote:
nitrocs wrote:
I'm interested to see how a Buf. WHR-HP-G54 responds to the power brick mod...any ideas on where to acquire a 5v 3A+ power supply?
I just got it today put dd-wrt.v24-12476_NEWD-2_std-nokaid on it AND did a Power Mod on it its working good and COOL.
"more on the power mod later" But its looken GOOD and thats with only 1 heatsink on the Cpu/Switch.
and i have not yet done a power supply upgrade "Yet" but im looking for a 5volt 4Amp one i need to see it i have one before i order one.
But YES IT IS STARVING for power badly !! at only 1.4amp
the factory power supply that comes with it well how do i put this.................................
IT SUX!
8)
I found a
+5.17volt
2.5amp
What a BIG Help!
The "RX" went up and the "TX" went up.
Hey Radioman193...
Read all I can find on your mod posts...very interesting...How is your Linksys Air Staion working. Or is it an AirLink...or a LinkAir... I want to power supply mod my WHR-HP-G54 (stock is 5v-1.4 amp). I have not been able to find a 5v-4amp power supply anywhere...have you? Do you have a supplier for power supplies I can look up?
for the antenna mod if you do the second antenna mod in the pictures in the wiki is not the way to do it well the antenna mounting is ok but were the antenna is soldered to the board .
in the pictures in the wiki are a Bad way of doing it .
thave WAY to mutch antenna trace before were the antennas are soldered thay have Over a wave lingth of trace on the board .
you ask why is this wrong????
Ok
that trace on the board before the point were the antennas are soldered will act like an antenna so now Not all the Rf power gets to the antennas that you mount.
the trace on the board will still act like an antenna and wast alot of power!
just look at my photos in the thread to see how to do it properly .
it will be a BIG improvement.
the points to solder at are marked in the photos here.
wro.jpg
Description:
The Proper place to solder the antenna.
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DSC0004.JPG
Description:
ONLY if you want to REPLACE the factory Main antenna.
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DSC0009.JPG
Description:
This is the Proper place to solder the second antenna .
I guess I need a heat sink also? What do I use to stick it on?
NoTaRadioMan
squibt
LOL
for your Heatsink mounting hmmmmm
this shuld help :D
BEFORE!! Glueing make shure the Heatsink is not to tall
or you will not be able to put the side back on your router and will Not be able to remove the heatsink after its glued!
good luck and let me know how it turns out for ya.
Uh, I wrote method #1. Some other enterprising soul/sole wrote method #2.
The only judge of absolute right or wrong is your creator. Other stuff is mere preference in comparison. It's a big inhibitor to spiritual growth otherwise, lugging around that ego :P
Thanks for antenna tips, anyway. I know what you are trying to do. If you want, clean up method #2 with your directions - that's the most useful. If one is using RF cable, might as well wire it into the source of the signal.
If a man, as in member of mankind, -forsaking a lot of HF wiring experience- wants a second antenna external, the single part on from LINX is easy, with the pigtail method only a bit more difficult. The LINX-part-method may not have the lowest-possible loss, but I long ago gave up on pursuing perfect in favour of 'it works and it's easy'. To each his own.
Joined: 09 Jul 2006 Posts: 71 Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 14:02 Post subject:
Radioman...
Exclamation Arrow BEFORE!! Glueing make shure the Heatsink is not to tall
or you will not be able to put the side back on your router and will Not be able to remove the heatsink after its glued!
Haaa...good point I have a shorty heat sink but I will check it anyway just in case....but if I made a mistake, couldn't I just pry the heat sink off with a steak knife and a pair of channel locks????
sdoboz0,
Ya really ought not to start drinking so early on a Sunday morning...
They make "self adhesive" thermal pads for just sort of application. They can be purchased anywhere that sells stuff for extreme cooling & overclocking.
Once stuck, they stay stuck but can also be removed. _________________ PM for Pin Short Instructions
Good point
But i like my ArticSilver 5 makes for Better heat transfer.
i have removed them after supper glue but not wise if you dont know what your doing .
I might try the sticky pads some day .
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Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 18:42 Post subject:
I used those "pads" for sticking heat sinks the the voltage regulator(s) on a rig when I converted it from air cooled to water cooled as there was no longer a fan blowing on the processor & VR's. They seemed to transfer the heat very well.
Crashed & burned though.. Heat sink or not, I still needed air moving to remove the heat from the heat sinks.. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
Yup if you get Alot of heat Build up fast you will need a fan.
But in a router i think we are safe to say we dont need a fan............lol 32" boxfan lol
cause the heat build up on the heat sink is slow and that allows for the heat sink to dissipate the heat adequately to keep ya in the "Safe" zone.
We Want "Some" heat for "heat convection".
"passive cooling" as heat goes out the top it is pulling cooler air in at the bottom
that replaces the warmer air that was there over and over.
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