Does anyone know what the power consumption of this router is like with DDWRT installed? I currently have a usb stick plugged in and am using the stock power supply.
I am thinking of adding in a splitter and attaching an ADSL router in addition (Netgear DG834PN with wifi off, rated 12v 1a). Will the 12v 2a supply be able to handle both of these routers? Or is the gain in efficiency of using 1 adapter instead of 2 too small to be worth considering?
Does anyone know what the power consumption of this router is like with DDWRT installed? I currently have a usb stick plugged in and am using the stock power supply.
I am thinking of adding in a splitter and attaching an ADSL router in addition (Netgear DG834PN with wifi off, rated 12v 1a). Will the 12v 2a supply be able to handle both of these routers? Or is the gain in efficiency of using 1 adapter instead of 2 too small to be worth considering?
Maybe I'm not following, but wouldn't the additional router have its own power supply anyway? I mean, if you already have the hardware, just plug it in and see what happens. If you were sending too much power to it then it would be a different story, but I wouldn't think too much draw here would end up hurting anything one time around.
Does anyone know what the power consumption of this router is like with DDWRT installed? I currently have a usb stick plugged in and am using the stock power supply.
I am thinking of adding in a splitter and attaching an ADSL router in addition (Netgear DG834PN with wifi off, rated 12v 1a). Will the 12v 2a supply be able to handle both of these routers? Or is the gain in efficiency of using 1 adapter instead of 2 too small to be worth considering?
Their would be no gain, only loss as you will likely overheat a single wallwort. Just an educated guess.
First, I doubt the wallworts are of sufficient quality to handle the rated output on the case, I'll bet there is a significant AC ripple, especially if it's a small wallwort (switching power supplies with minimal filtering capacitors).
If you're serious, buy an AC ammeter and measure the current draw at the wall plug being used by each device.
Calculate out how much it costs a year to operate each item.
Next if you want to continue down this path you will need to figure out if the power supply is even good enough to handle the current draw so get an o'scope and connect up the 12 VDC output to see how clean the signal is, and accurate. Only then do you split it and then see if the wallwort doesn't overheat and start throwing high AC signal into the DC line.
If you're trying to save money, I'd just hook up the wallworts to each device it came with. I think that once you factor in power consumption and cost per kilowatt that it will be cheap.
I doubt there are many folks trying new builds for this router as they all have had issues since 17201. I don't think that each compiled version is specifically tested on each piece of hardware so you are looking at "generic" software. If you can use 17201 then you should be good to go.
I doubt there are many folks trying new builds for this router as they all have had issues since 17201. I don't think that each compiled version is specifically tested on each piece of hardware so you are looking at "generic" software. If you can use 17201 then you should be good to go.
I tried the new firmware, and everything is great coming from stock 2.07. Wifi works (both 2.4 and 5), LED's seem normal, and everything else seems operational. I'll report back if I have any issues.
I doubt there are many folks trying new builds for this router as they all have had issues since 17201. I don't think that each compiled version is specifically tested on each piece of hardware so you are looking at "generic" software. If you can use 17201 then you should be good to go.
I tried the new firmware, and everything is great coming from stock 2.07. Wifi works (both 2.4 and 5), LED's seem normal, and everything else seems operational. I'll report back if I have any issues.
Keep an eye on your wireless connectivity. When I was using a slightly older version recently the wireless seemed okay in the beginning but started to block the wireless connections. Rebooting only worked for a short period of time so I reverted back as I mentioned previously.
Please post your results of how this software is working and specifically what features you are using and basic configuration as well. It would be well received here.
I doubt there are many folks trying new builds for this router as they all have had issues since 17201. I don't think that each compiled version is specifically tested on each piece of hardware so you are looking at "generic" software. If you can use 17201 then you should be good to go.
I've been running 18777 for a while without problems. It took a bit of playing to get both bands working at Turbo but has been stable since getting it there.
I'll wait a couple of days to see other reports on 19342 before I try it though.
I'll wait a couple of days to see other reports on 19342 before I try it though.
I was sticking with 17201 as it was the latest that didn't break WiFi. I'm happy to report that after installing 19342 that WiFi works again and I haven't other issues!
Got a new dir-825-revb2 these days and put the 17201 on it. After having found out about changeset 18810 i risked upgrading to 19342.
Wireless still working!
I switched off ath1 though, because i don't need it at the moment and it's only working at 13 dBm. In my apartment i can connect with my SGSII to ath1 but only at a distance roughly up to 5 meters. With ath0 i have connection everywhere.
ath0 reports:
Radio Radio is On
Mode AP
Network NG-Mixed
SSID ****
Channel 8 (2447 MHz)
TX Power 19 dBm
Rate 300 Mb/s
Is it possible to boost the ath0 TX power a little bit? Because even in my small apartment i have troubles getting a stable connection with my SGSII (android 4.0.3).
BUT, with my previous router it was even worse.
Now i've got to read a lot of documentation because i'm completely new to DD-WRT.
Last edited by bbun1508 on Tue Jun 19, 2012 18:23; edited 2 times in total
