No need for me to humiliate him....he drives a Yaris! _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
I can solder decently but the ground hole needed a little more heat than the others and the PCB warped slightly allowing the metal ring to become slightly loose. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
Joined: 07 Jun 2006 Posts: 2087 Location: Odessa, Ukraine
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 18:17 Post subject:
Well, use one of the other ground holes, doesn't have to be pin 6, just don't use 12 _________________ Want JTAG support - Donate a router
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#5 is loose too and I can't find my multimeter. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 0:00 Post subject:
phuzi0n wrote:
#5 is loose too and I can't find my multimeter.
P~... were you trying to solder a hole or clean a hole? If you were trying to clean a solder hole, I have a trick / tip I will share.
If you were trying to solder in the header or pin on a ground hole.. My guess would be you need more wattage in your cottage. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
P~... were you trying to solder a hole or clean a hole? If you were trying to clean a solder hole, I have a trick / tip I will share.
If you were trying to solder in the header or pin on a ground hole.. My guess would be you need more wattage in your cottage.
I was trying to clean them without any real desoldering tools. Now I wish I had just used the existing solder and put the pins in one by one. The solder used in the ground holes seemed to have had a higher melting point than the stuff used in the other holes. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
Joined: 06 Jun 2006 Posts: 3763 Location: I'm the one on the plate.
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:08 Post subject:
Tornado wrote:
... I do not know about Vista either, I guess we will find out..but I suggest you make sure your board is ready before testing...
Maybe GeeTek can help us out here ?
Does JTAG use the COM port or USB ? I have 32 bit XP Pro running in W7 64 bit Virtual PC. loaddrv.exe opens a GUI just like it does on my native XP box. In W7 loaddrv.exe returns the error "Cannot connect to service control manager". What can I do to test OS compatability in the VM ?
If JTAG only uses USB then I'll need to find out how to enable USB access in the VM. The help file has an entry on the subject, but the help file is empty. The COM ports are available to the VM. _________________ http://69.175.13.131:8015 Streaming Week-End Disco. Station Ripper V 1.1 will do.
P~... were you trying to solder a hole or clean a hole? If you were trying to clean a solder hole, I have a trick / tip I will share.
Please share. I found this to be most frustrating. However, I now have a specific soldering tip that fits right though the solder hole on a jtag terminal.
That being said, Phuzi0n...did you get it working? _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
My guess would be you need more wattage in your cottage.
Do you really think he needs a better sword on the board? Because I have found sometimes its just not enough lead in the bed. To much tin in the bin can fetter your header till can't make it better.
Really takes a toll on the hole. _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 15:23 Post subject:
Murrkf wrote:
barryware wrote:
My guess would be you need more wattage in your cottage.
Do you really think he needs a better sword on the board? Because I have found sometimes its just not enough lead in the bed. To much tin in the bin can fetter your header till can't make it better.
Really takes a toll on the hole.
You just don't worry about this and get the rg updater tested. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
P~... were you trying to solder a hole or clean a hole? If you were trying to clean a solder hole, I have a trick / tip I will share.
Please share. I found this to be most frustrating. However, I now have a specific soldering tip that fits right though the solder hole on a jtag terminal.
That being said, Phuzi0n...did you get it working?
Careful, I was using a 15W iron with a small tip that fit through and that's how the metal ring holes got loose from the pcb. Most of the holes cleaned out easily even though I didn't have any wick/sucker but a couple got too hot and came loose.
Barryware had a long post that he deleted (?) soon after it was posted that mostly suggested common soldering advice: adding some leaded solder with flux to help it mix will allow you to remove lead free solder more easily, use wick or a solder sucker, some specific product was recommended that I don't recall.
I'm not going to do anything to it until I can find my multimeter to know which pins need work. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 20:00 Post subject:
phuzi0n wrote:
Murrkf wrote:
barryware wrote:
P~... were you trying to solder a hole or clean a hole? If you were trying to clean a solder hole, I have a trick / tip I will share.
Please share. I found this to be most frustrating. However, I now have a specific soldering tip that fits right though the solder hole on a jtag terminal.
That being said, Phuzi0n...did you get it working?
Careful, I was using a 15W iron with a small tip that fit through and that's how the metal ring holes got loose from the pcb. Most of the holes cleaned out easily even though I didn't have any wick/sucker but a couple got too hot and came loose.
Barryware had a long post that he deleted (?) soon after it was posted that mostly suggested common soldering advice: adding some leaded solder with flux to help it mix will allow you to remove lead free solder more easily, use wick or a solder sucker, some specific product was recommended that I don't recall.
I'm not going to do anything to it until I can find my multimeter to know which pins need work.
Sorry.. I deleted the post soon after because I wanted to include links to products and pictures..
But a recap:
The OEM solder is lead free and takes much more heat to melt than does the normal hobbyist solder.
If this solder is on the holes, it takes a lot of heat to get it melted and removed.. The ground holes are especially painful because they are connected to the ground plane of the pcb. All that copper acts like a giant heat sink sucking out the heat from the tip of your soldering pen as fast as it is going in.
For flash chip removal / replacement I use some stuff called "ChipQuik". It is a low melt solder and comes with a special flux. It is specifically for the removal of smt components. The flux is not the same as the rosin flux that is used or that is typically in rosin core solder. This flux aids in the "mixing" of the low melt solder and the oem solder.
So.. When I was cleaning the holes that were filled with solder on my 350, I tried the ChipQuik I had on hand. It took a couple of tries but the holes were perfectly clean and there was no damage to the pcb.
Soldering wick (braid) is a must. This is a flat copper "rope". You lay the solder braid on the hole, then using your soldering pen, heat the braid. The solder under the braid melts and the braid sucks it up. It works better if you apply flux to the braid. When done, it is important to clean the left over flux with alcohol. The chipquik flux is not rosin flux and is not for soldering in components. Don't use the low melt solder for attaching parts. When cold, it is very brittle. It is not for attaching parts.
If this is a one time deal and you don't want to spend the 15+ bucks for the chipquik, then "add" solder to the holes 1st, then use the braid to suck it up. This may take a couple of tries but works.
Let the soldering pen and the braid do the work. DO NOT start pushing, dragging, or applying pressure. Apply enough pressure to make sure you transfer the heat, but not enough to start lifting and damaging the pads.
It was suggested in a much earlier post somewhere to use a stainless steel needle. This will help those stubborn holes. The solder will not stick to the stainless steel. I use a sewing needle when I need to. Heat the solder and push the needle through. The solder will end up on the shaft of the needle.
I also use a desoldering bulb and a desoldering pen. The heated desoldering pen sorta works but the braid is much better. The bulb is a joke.. By the time you move your pen to get the bulb in place. It is too late. I have used the bulb to "blow" out the solder from a hole. This carries it's own risks because the solder will "splash".
Words of caution:
Let the tools and heat do the work and not force. Keep the area clean. No rule says you can not clean the area with alcohol, then add more flux for further work. If you start turning the flux into charcoal, you can't see what you are working on.
Keep the tip of your pen clean and tinned. I use a wet sponge. When ever I lay down the soldering pen, I drag the tip across the sponge to clean it. I also re-tin the tip when I pick it back up. You must keep your soldering tip cleaner than your a$$hole. After all, you are not soldering with your a$$hole.
Watch out for those little smt resistors that are typically near the holes and around smt chips. I accidentally knocked one off once and it is like working with a grain of sand to put it back on.
If I am removing a flashchip, I'll mask the nearby resistors with a strip of duct tape to make sure I don't de-solder one of those little guys ever again. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
Careful, I was using a 15W iron with a small tip that fit through and that's how the metal ring holes got loose from the pcb.
That's a good point, with the tips being a potential problem. My soldering gun is a 400-800 degree adjustable soldering station and the high heat does help. I need better equipment because I have no skill. I haven't tried this new tip on oem solder. _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Joined: 06 Jun 2006 Posts: 3763 Location: I'm the one on the plate.
Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:28 Post subject:
LOM wrote:
Tornados tjtag utility uses neither of them, it uses the parallell port (LPTx).
Thanks. Having never bricked a router I've never looked into JTAG.
From an administrator command prompt on the host enter "Net Stop Spooler". In the VM enter "Net Start Spooler".
This will allow the VM to capture control of the LPT. _________________ http://69.175.13.131:8015 Streaming Week-End Disco. Station Ripper V 1.1 will do.
