Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:36 Post subject: Potential brick - other options before hardware fixes?
Hello. I'm new to the forum and have NOT yet loaded any dd-wrt firmware or others than manufacturer recommended ones and have spent all evening reading things like the Peacock thread and related posts and trying to access by semi-bricked router.
Additional specs from Router Database pages for my router model (Which the Peacock thread says I should largely ignore):
Linksys WRT54G v2.0
Chipset BCM4712 @ 200 MHz
WLAN NIC: Broadcom BCM2050KML
Serial Port: Yes
JTAG Port: Yes
WLAN standard: b/g
RAM 16 MB
FLASH 4 MB
Current firmware - good question. It may have been Linksys WRT54GV2_v4.21.1.cfg. I was trying to upgrade from an older Linksys version either to this 4.21.1 or other PER Cisco tech support (yuk) when my router stopped responding.
Now I can not ping my router at all successfully. I have tried pinging manually, and via a ping program that tries all IPs in a range to ensure it wasn't set for some odd IP since I used to change it from 192.168.1.1 to something like 192.168.3.1. However, when testing it I've tried 192.168.1.x, 3.x, 5.x, and 10.x all to no avail for any response except "REQUEST TIMED OUT". (And I've been sure to change my Windows XP laptop with only LAN NIC active to match whichever subnet I was testing first.)
LIGHTS, LIGHTS, LIGHTS
----------------------
Here's what happens when I power up my router whether I have the reset button pushed in or not, whether I'm doing a 30/30/30 or not, etc:
1) I plug in the power to the router
2) The POWER light starts blinking rapidly (approx. 4 times per second). This never changes.
3) All LAN ports and INTERNET light come on for approx 1 second, then the WAN light joins them, the the LAN and INTERNET ports go dark, then (if I do have a LAN cable in from my XP laptop) the matching LAN port the cable is in comes on and stay solid along with the WAN port light.
Now that LAN port stays solid UNLESS I ping it. When I do a continuous or single ping the LAN light will blink approx 1 time per second as though it received the ping request.
However I only ever get back "REQUEST TIMED OUT". And Win XP network notification does show that the computer is "NOW CONNECTED", but no data ever comes back.
So, my question is what to try next. I've been trying 30/30/30 and various IP subnet pings all evening. The fact that I see some lights working makes me wonder if there is a means to success without opening up this thing (which since I can't get it to work is not so terrible if I could find directions on how to open it safely.)
According to dd-wrt router database info I should have a serial and JTAG port inside somewhere so I'd like to know the easiest method to try (it's been years since I've soldered anything so "easier" wins for me if possible, but I don't mind trying since it already doesn't work.)
GOAL
----
1) to get router working again with dd-wrt on it
2) use this thing as a wireless repeater so my internet capable blu-ray player and satellite receiver can be hard wired to this router's LAN ports and wireless bridge back to the house's main ISP router connection upstairs.
3) relax and smile from a job well done
Check for pings (you've done that). Try a different power supply. Get a serial cable.
I suspect only a serial cable will fix it, but, follow the steps in note 6. _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 14:00 Post subject: Thanks
Hi Murrkf - thanks for letting me know it's time to move onto the serial cable test. I had wondered since I did seem to have some responsive lights if perhaps there was a non-soldering method, but apparently not.
(My power supply was fine just before it bricked so I suspect that's okay and I don't have another. I had already tried the "alternate, hope this helps" posts mentioned in Peacock-6 as well last night before posting.)
So onto read about serial cables and how to dissect a CA-42 apparently (and to find online somewhere how to open this thing since v2 of the WRT54G does not have the slightly handy serial ports sitting in view of the WAN port.)
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:01 Post subject: tips on soldering?
Hi again. I managed to get the cover off my Linksys WRT54G v2 safely, and I see the soldered holes that I need to hook the CA-42 cables to.
But, I haven't done much soldering in years and not much then. Enough to be okay firing it up, but not sure about those holes.
Do I need to suck all the holes empty of their solder first, or just solder my cables onto that existing solder spot? (Maybe it's moot since the existing solder will melt anyway...?)
Which leads me to question #2 - has anyone ever put in a permanent header type set of pins into that serial port area, then drilled a few holes into the router chassis above it so they wouldn't have to keep opening up the unit if they had to get to the serial ports again? Just wondering in case I have to do this a few times or want to upgrade (and goof it up) later.
Thanks for the assistance (pictures and tips for soldering this thing are welcome...)
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 18:11 Post subject: Re: tips on soldering?
spacewalker wrote:
Do I need to suck all the holes empty of their solder first,
yes... _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 19:43 Post subject: soldering...
Thanks Murrkf. I have read this in the Serial post that is linked to the Peacock: "Usually, you have to solder to pads or remove solder from the holes and install a four or five pin header."
Since it says "or" I'm not sure if I have to remove ALL the solder (from the unused 6 other holes for example) - that's what I'm wondering about.
Guess I'm on my way to finding a header somewhere then...
Solder filled holes are much different than the pads on some router. You need to remove the solder from the holes. It is difficult. Commercial solder is hard. Use lots of flux and start by adding new solder, unless you have a very small solder tip that will penetrate the holes. Most soldering pens are too big to do it easily. Get some solder wick.
Be very careful not to lift the rings from the pcb... _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 14:18 Post subject: soldering...
Could you potentially just drill them out first?
Also, could you just leave them soldered and clamp a tip onto the holes you need (think of an alligator clip with a single long "tooth" at the end) in order to make the connection?
Just wondering - thanks for the tips on how to best remove the solder though!
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 14:29 Post subject: Re: soldering...
spacewalker wrote:
Could you potentially just drill them out first?
Also, could you just leave them soldered and clamp a tip onto the holes you need (think of an alligator clip with a single long "tooth" at the end) in order to make the connection?
Just wondering - thanks for the tips on how to best remove the solder though!
do not drill the holes.
for a one time deal, you can just solder your wires to the hole(s) and remove them when you are done. it is always best to remove the solder and install a header.
As murrkf stated, apply flux, then add solder to the holes. The factory solder is hi temp. Mix it with regular resin core solder or even low temp solder, then use solder wick to suck it out of the holes. I also apply flux to the solder wick.
The data holes are easy. The ground holes are a bitch. The ground plane of the router acts like a great big heatsink and it is difficult to clean out the ground holes but can be done with patience. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
Thanks. Since I'm new to this header soldering stuff, and I'd like to set this up for re-use in case I need to do this more than once, can someone point me to a picture of some header suggestions as what to use?
I find many kinds online when i search for them. Ideally I'd like to solder in a permanent header that'll fit with the case reassembled (and maybe even dremeled so as to have the serial points now available externally).
I'm thinking some (I think they are called) female headers, that way I just insert some "pins" soldered to my cut CA-42 cable when needed?
They are standard .100 inch header. By a row of 100 pins, or a double row if you want to do it right. _________________ SIG:
I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm more of a fishing instructor.
LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law.."
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 14:57 Post subject:
they are called pin headers. The ones you need are on 0.100 centers.
you can get "duel row" or "single row".
I just install 2 single row.
google "snappable pin headers". Snappable means that the plastic is scored in between each pin. so you "snap" them apart. If you need 5 pins, you snap it apart at the 5th pin.
they usually come in 40 pin lengths. You can also buy exactly what you need. your router has one 12 pin header for jtag (2 x 6 pins) and one 10 pin header for serial (2 x 5 pins). However, the serial header has two separate serial circuits. Each serial circuit is one row of 5 pins _________________ [Moderator Deleted]