Joined: 17 Jul 2009 Posts: 101 Location: Chicago North Suburbs
Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:01 Post subject:
I've been running the 19519 build for a couple months now without any problems. However over the past week or so, I've had to reboot the router due to inability to access the GUI. Right now, I can access it, but it's hosed. I'll try rebooting it, but this problem seems to be common. I'll try rebooting the router again, but it really shouldn't be necessary every couple weeks.
Joined: 17 Jul 2009 Posts: 101 Location: Chicago North Suburbs
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 23:19 Post subject:
Well after exactly 72 hours, everything is running smoothly. No disconnects, no need for reboots, and I can still access my routers web GUI without any problems. I can also use the time-gated "Access Restriction" feature without any problems (was a problem in a couple previous releases) If someone will post something so I know that ANYONE is reading ANYTHING I'm writing, I will continue to post updates on this latest release over time.
Well after exactly 72 hours, everything is running smoothly. No disconnects, no need for reboots, and I can still access my routers web GUI without any problems. I can also use the time-gated "Access Restriction" feature without any problems (was a problem in a couple previous releases) If someone will post something so I know that ANYONE is reading ANYTHING I'm writing, I will continue to post updates on this latest release over time.
Anymore updates?
Could you also try rebooting it to see if any other problems arise.
Well after exactly 72 hours, everything is running smoothly. No disconnects, no need for reboots, and I can still access my routers web GUI without any problems. I can also use the time-gated "Access Restriction" feature without any problems (was a problem in a couple previous releases) If someone will post something so I know that ANYONE is reading ANYTHING I'm writing, I will continue to post updates on this latest release over time.
Thanks for sharing. I'm trying that same bin as well now. I've had issues when connected to my work VPN so I'm willing to try anything at this point, was previously using 19519. I spent about 1/2 day trying to get Tomato to work with no luck. I was able to load the bin file fine and connect to an unsecured network, but everytime I tried changing the security settings to a secured network (WPA2 Personal) I wasn't able to connect the router nor get any internet access, not sure if anyone else had that experience but after two failed attempts I went back to dd-wrt. Ultimately I might have to break down and buy another router.
Joined: 17 Jul 2009 Posts: 101 Location: Chicago North Suburbs
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:15 Post subject:
OK good, it's not dead. I figured there would be a lot of people who use this router. It's a decent, Linksys N router that's inexpensive and supports DD-WRT. That makes it a candidate for a large userbase (hence the thread reboot). Anyways...
After 10 days everything is still working perfectly. No needed reboots, no problems with time restrictions, no problems with MAC address-based Static IP assignments, no problems accessing the web GUI. So far so good.
As far as rebooting... Rebooting by doing a simple power cycle worked without any problems. However selecting the [REBOOT ROUTER] button from the bottom of the "administration" page, did nothing.
I haven't tried the G/N mixed mode yet, but I've all but abandoned hope in regards to that working for this. I also don't know if I have any N specific devices in the house to test with. Any ideas on what to test with? We have a couple laptops that are b/g/n and and xbox that I think is too.
Glad to see someone finally has made some headway in solving this connection drop issue.
I've spent the last week and a half sifting through the ridiculous amount of crap here to come up with a solution.
I think I speak for everyone when I say I would be very interested to hear about your mixed GN performance. Since I am forced into a mixed environment, all my devices are N while the wifes are G :/ ...
If you don't have any G devices my suggestion would be to disable N on one of your laptops and force it to hook up with G, should be able to test that way.
I have a wrt160n now for a while, and just upgraded to the latest firmware because of my wireless needs.
My situation is I have a need to get wireless signal to an AP/Extender in my detached garage, and I've tried everything I can think of to boost my signal enough to accomplish this task short of running a cable and bridging another wireless router inside of my garage.
Long story short, recently I've purchase two routers that I returned that turned out to perform WORSE than the wrt160n. One was a Cisco/Linksys E series and a small business class router.
I tried DD-WRT on the E series and it didn't help much at all. Those two routers would drop connection randomly or once a day even to my ISP.
Basically I always fall back to my wrt160n. It's been great for a long time and it USED to throw a really good signal to the far reaches of my property.
But since I built my garage the signal quality has declined. One source of my problem I discovered a while back was the 2.4GHZ wireless phones were causing interference so they are now gone.
Anyways, back to the question at hand.
Currently I get two bars in my garage from the wrt160n, and that's AFTER I have moved it to the center of my house. The garage is still about 30' from it's location (traveling through the house) and about 10' of that is outside distance between the two.
I'm using an RE1000 extender to grab this tiny signal and run wireless devices for exampled streaming pandora, and this works some days better than others.
After my last attempts I upgraded the firmware to the latest version on both the router and the RE1000 and I did note some improvement.
However, the router now drops out and I have to reboot it when I get home every day.
Sorry for the long winded post, but this got me thinking when I read Ryan's above.
It would appear that even linksys/cisco's firmware is not immune from the dropping issue.
My question to you all who have flashed your wrt160 with dd-wrt is... did you notice any significant improvement in signal strength?
I've been looking at routers again and I'm having a hard time bringing myself to spend $200 on the "higher end" routers that "claim" to have increase signal only to find myself in this same boat.
I plan on flashing my router tonight with dd-wrt to see if it helps the dropping issue and improves range, however, I wonder if I'm wasting my time, and should just buy another router, run dd-wrt on both with a hard wired bridge.
I've been avoiding that solution since I'd have to dig/climb in the attic and run the cable. :/
Again, sorry to be so long winded, just hoping to share my experience and glean any advice you all may have with regard to my situation.
I'm thinking, then, we should go with a generic build as opposed to trailed (IOW, with the WRT160Nv3 model number in the filename)? If so, this might be good info to add to the first post in this thread, as if this build solves the connection issue, it would save a lot of reading through a handful of threads (as I've spent the last 90 minutes doing ).
So far everything seems to be working, except for two things:
1) GUI doesn't refresh in 1 out of 3 actions. In other words, I can "Apply" a setting and the window never refreshes about a third of the time. Sometimes a reload (F5) will make it kick over; other times, no. Makes it difficult to configure the router. And, it's independent of browser, as I tried it in Chrome and IE10.
2) Still don't have wireless N working. I can get it to operate on N (where I can see the network's SSID using inSSIDer, and showing it is operating in N mode), but the devices cannot connect. It might be something else though...I have a few things to try.
Mine is the CSE41 serial of this modem, and following earlier recommendations in this thread, I've set transmit power to 119mw and overclocked it.
The ONLY thing not addressed: does this build need the manual loopback workaround? I haven't found anything to indicate if this build 20202 needs it or not--has this issue been fixed in this build? If it has been fixed, and this build uses the newer radio drivers, perhaps this might be "the one" to cure our WRT160Nv3 woes?
Otherwise this build has seemed stable enough for the few hours I've been running it. I'll let it run for the week and see if there's any change. Especially once I get my issues with wireless-N ironed out.