NO THIRD PARTY supports MU-MIMO.
There is NO timeline for it's introduction.
So yes get rid of it.
If you want MU-MIMO and ANY third party firm/software you might want to check thoroughly, I'm not sure that there is even a single router that runs true MU-MIMO in any "open source" firm/software.
Good Luck.
Joined: 18 Aug 2009 Posts: 597 Location: Antigua/Seattle
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:16 Post subject:
I have no idea you tell me what that means.
Are you saying that that's what you're using?
If so good on you.
As I said I know of no third party soft/firmware for this, (really have no concern about it myself.)
But if that works for you by all means.
You may want to take this question to the atheros sub forum I'm sure they can help you, but this one is focused on the marvel crap.
Yea I looked at that you definitely should jump all over that lol. _________________ WRT3200ACM
I bought the R8000P today. I know it doesn't have DD-WRT support yet, but as long as it's good hardware and it's possible that it has it in the future, I'm OK with that. I'm willing to be patient and wait for that kind of support and just use the stock firmware for now. I haven't owned a netgear wifi router since my very first netgear access point. I'm having a hell of a time figuring out how to configure as simply an access point. I don't need the router features - I have a very nice router in the house already. With DD-WRT and stock linksys firmware, I've been able to select AP mode and still be able to access the device over my network. All I'm doing now with the R8000P is setting it all up, and then moving the network cable from the internet port to port 1. That solves the wireless client issue, but it still won't let me access it over my existing network by IP. I'll get it figured out eventually, or just ignore it until DD-WRT is available for it
So who has better stock firmware for advanced configuration, netgear or asus, 1Gbit QoS and gaming is probably my highest priority? Looking at R7000P/R8000P or RT-AC88U/RT-AC86U to replace wrt3200acm.
Joined: 13 Jun 2006 Posts: 1608 Location: SE Michigan USA
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 18:45 Post subject:
@hawkbug
Currently the r8000p firmware is a work in progress. For example QoS was not in the firmware at ship. Currently other Netgear routers have a AP selection in advanced setup, but not the r8000p. You might be able to make it an AP by following AP instructions DD-WRT suggests. Assign an IP other then your router, turnoff dhcp. Don't think you can disable the firewall though so maybe getting a double NAT.
So after limping along my HP laptop with the underperforming Intel AC3165 wireless adapter I found a decent replacement adapter on ebay. I purchased the AC8265 which is rated at up to 867Mbps while the former AC3165 was rated at 433 Mbps. Following the replacement I installed the latest Intel driver and all is good.
I tested the Netgear R7800, Linksys EA8500 & WRT3200 and the Asus RT-AC68U with iperf from the same target. The R7800 and RT-AC68U were configured as AP’s only. IMHO the outright winner was the $50 ASUS TM-AC1900 (Asus T-Mobile cobranded) that I purchased directly from T-Mobile about two years ago. Someone found a way to convert the ASUS TM-AC1900 back to an RT-AC68U by replacing the CFE so you could use Tomato, dd-wrt or Merlin. Otherwise without the conversion the ASUS TM-AC1900 is just a striped down version the RT-AC68U that has QOS optimized for use as a T-Mobile hotspot. The RT-AC68U is predecessor to the RT-AC86U and the RT-AC68U still one of Asus’s flagship models even though it’s a few years old.
IMHO the 3200 did made a respectable showing. I used the latest dd-wrt Kong builds for both the EA8500 & R7800. I used the BS build for the build for 3200 and Merlin FW for the RT-AC68U. I know we have a few Netgear fans that like to drop in the Marvell forum but from my testing the R7800 just barely edges out the 3200 while the EA8500 outperforms the R7800. Then I have the $50 Asus blowing away my entire collection for wireless performance & range. The RT-AC68U makes for a great AP. YMMV but my conclusion is same, the wrt3200 is a keeper regardless of the critics.
Edit: updated image
Last edited by 05dyna on Tue Feb 13, 2018 1:18; edited 1 time in total
Thanks @myersw. Yeah, what I ended up doing was plugging the ethernet cable into the internet port on it, and letting it do NAT, DHCP, etc while I configured it. Once I had everything configured, I just move the ethernet cable to port 1 (or any other port other than the WAN port). This is an old trick I've used with any wireless routers that don't have an AP mode. It works fine and lets my devices pick up DHCP from my main router so it's not double NAT'd. The only issue I have now is that I can't access the router without first swapping the cable and renewing my wireless address so I can hit 192.168.1.1 and tweak the settings.
This will work for now until DD-WRT supports it. I am exhausted from cutting over all my devices Everything from my TVs to my garage door opener had to be switched. The biggest pain was the Nest devices like the cams and protect smoke detectors. You would think they could make that process easier than having to drop the device and then add it back.
Thanks for the advice on getting rid of the WRT3200ACM. I think I'll be very happy with the R8000P and I'll keep watching the forums for a compatible firmware.
I tried a used R8000, but it was bricked when I got it (Probably because the previous owner did something wrong). When I got the return done, I just didn't care to try again.
The WRT3200 is frustrating, but for now I'm stuck with it. It's an AP right now so that my PC gets the tubes from the modem, and it consistently drops wi-fi or reboots.
What's worth saying again is that, even though Marvell and Linksys pushed out a product with terrible support, there are people who are working hard to make it usable.
Joined: 18 Aug 2009 Posts: 597 Location: Antigua/Seattle
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:25 Post subject:
imreader wrote:
I tried a used R8000, but it was bricked when I got it (Probably because the previous owner did something wrong). When I got the return done, I just didn't care to try again.
The WRT3200 is frustrating, but for now I'm stuck with it. It's an AP right now so that my PC gets the tubes from the modem, and it consistently drops wi-fi or reboots.
What's worth saying again is that, even though Marvell and Linksys pushed out a product with terrible support, there are people who are working hard to make it usable.
Are you saying your wrt3200acm is consistently dropping wi-fi as well as rebooting?
You have a unique situation everyone running the current 34929 is working fine.
If you're running this build then there is something seriously wrong with your router.
Joined: 13 Jun 2006 Posts: 1608 Location: SE Michigan USA
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 16:32 Post subject:
@hawkbug
One of the things that you do when following the DD-WRT way of setting up an AP is to assign a different IP address to the LAN. If you are using 192.168.1.1 then set the LAN interface on the r8000p to say 192.168.1.2. That way you can access the AP. You can do the IP through Advanced/setup/LAN.
Have done this with DD-WRT and worked fine, suspect it will for you. One thing to watch for is if the dhcp range you have set includes the .2 address.
--bill _________________ Unifi Security Gateway:Unifi Firmware Netgear r7800:Voxel Firmware Modem:Netgear CM500V voice and Data. ISP:Comcast tutorial for flashing "WRT" series: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=287813 DD-WRT Installation, Upgrade & Basic Setup–Cliff Notes: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=311117 Kong DD-WRT Config Tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-and-Configure-a-DD-WRT-Kong-Router/ I tried to be normal once. Worst 2 minutes ever.
Joined: 18 Aug 2009 Posts: 597 Location: Antigua/Seattle
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 17:04 Post subject:
I have a wrt3200acm set up for PPPOE so I'm using a crappy Zyxel Vdsl2 modem/router ap as a modem only.
the wrt3200acm handles everything else, but if I want to look at the dsl info like signal levels I need access to that modem.
A convenient way I found was a USB to Ethernet adapter this way I can look at the GUI on 192.168.1.1 as well as the modem at 192.168.0.1 and check my signal levels the adapter shows in your network and sharing.
A lot of people already have dual adapters and don't need this.
So right now I can type in 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 and I get access to either gui it selects the adapter needed automatically in windoze.
I like this better then adding a card in my mobo, those slots are sacred lol. _________________ WRT3200ACM
You have a unique situation everyone running the current 34929 is working fine.
If you're running this build then there is something seriously wrong with your router.
I was running 34578... After your post, I'm tossing 34929 on there.
A convenient way I found was a USB to Ethernet adapter this way I can look at the GUI on 192.168.1.1 as well as the modem at 192.168.0.1 and check my signal levels the adapter shows in your network and sharing.
I'm not familiar with PPPoE, but wouldn't it just be easier to put them on the same address block (i.e. 192.168.1.x)?
Also, 34929 is by far the most stable build I've tried yet.
Joined: 18 Aug 2009 Posts: 597 Location: Antigua/Seattle
Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 20:57 Post subject:
imreader wrote:
aairon wrote:
A convenient way I found was a USB to Ethernet adapter this way I can look at the GUI on 192.168.1.1 as well as the modem at 192.168.0.1 and check my signal levels the adapter shows in your network and sharing.
I'm not familiar with PPPoE, but wouldn't it just be easier to put them on the same address block (i.e. 192.168.1.x)?
Also, 34929 is by far the most stable build I've tried yet.
It has nothing to do with the WAN which is PPPOE it's the LAN where the two would collide.
The modem has a fixed gui access of 192.168.0.1 the dd-wrt has gui access at 192.168.1.1.
So how would you do this now, with one single network cable?
You have to get from your computer past the dd-wrt router to see the modem.
Hint you can type in 192.168.0.1 all day long and you'll get nothing through that one single network cable from your computer.
There are ways to do it but all very cumbersome compared to simply having two adapters that act transparently.
So you can type in either 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 and get either GUI at will.
In the future if your having issues with your router it would probably be better to make sure you're using the latest firm/software before you post because most of the folks who would respond would most likely be running the latest and would have no idea how to help you with some older build.
It's the reason for new builds, to fix things, not just to change the numbers. _________________ WRT3200ACM
I've been struggling with this router for about a year. I've been jumping between stock firmware and every "stable" build as my needs dictated. I'm no rube at this, but it's more work than it's worth to update every single firmware when more than half of them, historically, have been unstable. I don't have the time to test every build, and had I known that when I bought it, I would have returned it.
Marvell's support has been underwhelming, and dd-wrt doesn't have the history with these chips that it does on Broadcom SoCs.
Here's my suggestion: you can set your dd-wrt modem to 192.168.0.2, limit its DHCP to not include 192.168.1.1, et voila! You don't need a physical connection between