Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 20:42 Post subject: Wi-Fi Repeater: Linksys E3000 or Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 ??
Hi to everybody!
I was about to buy an extender for my home wi-fi when I realized that I had these two splendid routers still function in the closet...and remembered about a close friend of mine that had a wrt54gs like mine (but a newer version that mine 1.1) that was able to use dd-wrt with success!
I have read that the wrt54gs 1.1 is a little bit tricky for the hard-reset risk, so I was wondering if maybe I should go for the e3000 directly....that also does not have the external antennas (for the wrt54gs I have both short and long ones) and also can be kindly attached on a wall using its back holes.
I would like to have a hint from you guys about if one is best then another one, and in case if I have to pay attention to something in particular.
Otherwise if any of the two are the same for having a wi-fi extender, where I could look for the minimal/safest way to have setup a wi-fi repeater.
AH! Important question about that feature: is it best to have the repeater have the same ssid name as the main wi-fi router, or to have a second name?
About the connection that I will have in my hose, the Linksys will be connected to the main house router via wi-fi, and the Linksys will give signal by cable ethernet to my main desktop computer, and via wi-fi to up to 6 devices all together.
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 23:15 Post subject: Re: Wi-Fi Repeater: Linksys E3000 or Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 ??
PIRATA! wrote:
is it best to have the repeater have the same ssid name as the main wi-fi router, or to have a second name?
About the connection that I will have in my hose, the Linksys will be connected to the main house router via wi-fi, and the Linksys will give signal by cable ethernet to my main desktop computer, and via wi-fi to up to 6 devices all together.
Can you only use one of these, or both? First, you want to install (after initial install if not running DD already) a K3X build on the E3000 (prob 35531 for now), and set it up as a Client Bridge (or preferably Client if you don't need to talk to downstream devices) on one radio, and normal Access Point for the other. If you can use both routers, I'd suggest to connect the Client Bridge using 2.4 GHz, then connect the WRT54GS to it as an AP, and overclock it to 250 MHz. It probably has failing caps though; you have a soldering iron?
Anyway, this would allow you to extend both 2.4 and 5 GHz, w/o using Repeater Bridge (RB) mode.
I'd suggest not using RB, if you can help it. What is the main router? If Broadcom, you could also try WDS to it with the E3000. _________________ #NAT/SFE/CTF: limited speed w/ DD#Repeater issues#DD-WRT info: FAQ, Builds, Types, Modes, Changes, Demo#
OPNsense x64 5050e ITX|DD: DIR-810L, 2*EA6900@1GHz, R6300v1, RT-N66U@663, WNDR4000@533, E1500@353,
WRT54G{Lv1.1,Sv6}@250|FreshTomato: F7D8302@532|OpenWRT: F9K1119v1, RT-ACRH13, R6220, WNDR3700v4
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 0:29 Post subject: Re: Wi-Fi Repeater: Linksys E3000 or Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 ??
jwh7 wrote:
...
Can you only use one of these, or both? First, you want to install (after initial install if not running DD already) a K3X build on the E3000 (prob 35531 for now), and set it up as a Client Bridge (or preferably Client if you don't need to talk to downstream devices) on one radio, and normal Access Point for the other. If you can use both routers, I'd suggest to connect the Client Bridge using 2.4 GHz, then connect the WRT54GS to it as an AP, and overclock it to 250 MHz. It probably has failing caps though; you have a soldering iron?
Anyway, this would allow you to extend both 2.4 and 5 GHz, w/o using Repeater Bridge (RB) mode.
I'd suggest not using RB, if you can help it. What is the main router? If Broadcom, you could also try WDS to it with the E3000.
Hi and thank you for your reply.
The main router is a D-Link DVA-5592 and I can't change that, so I should use only one of my Linksys.
The E3000 is easy fitting as it doesn't have any antennas, so for where I have to place it, if it's a good one to choose respecting to the wrt54gs v1.1 for wi-fi signal strength and usability, I rather world like to use that one....otherwise I'm free to evaluate the use of the wrt if really is better.
Regarding what's installed actually on both, they are both like mother Cisco made them, so they have never been flashed with any firmwares. Maybe some official update, but I don't remember having flashed them.
Regarding what you have said about the signal, I don't have any idea about what's the meaning of "talk to downstream devices) on one radio, and normal for the other".
As I see with an app, I have both 2.4 and 5 GHz devices in my network, some are Apple, some Android, some Windows, some SmartTVs.
I think I might need to have a repeater, or what ever, that can spread my Wi-Fi farther then my main isp Wi-Fi router so for all those devices to be reached by my internet connection as they are all located in Wi-Fi dead areas because of my house concrete.
The Linksys router will be placed at the end of a long corridor where all the devices will face it with no walls in the middle, and the main isp router will be at the other end of the long corridor with no walls in the middle between the two.
I can't use a cable between the D-Link isp router and the Linksys one.
Is there a way to have things set up good with using one of my two Linksys?
And I don't care having a repeater or something else.
The important is to some my issue. If it's better to have a Client instead of a Repeater, please tell me so.
Joined: 18 Mar 2014 Posts: 12923 Location: Netherlands
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:38 Post subject:
Just follow @jwh7's advice use the E3000, set one of the radio's in client bridge mode to connect to your main network: https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged .
Set the other radio at default AP and clients connect to that radio.
Just follow @jwh7's advice use the E3000, set one of the radio's in client bridge mode to connect to your main network: https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged .
Set the other radio at default AP and clients connect to that radio.
And of course first reset to defaults before and after uploading: ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/betas/2018/03-26-2018-r35531/broadcom_K3X/
If you come from a really old k2.6 build, first upload 21676 K2.6, reset, upload k3.x 21676 and then after resetting 35531
Thank you.
About the flashing procedure, I see this in the E3000 wiki:
Quote:
K3.x upgrade
To install K3.x the first time, follow these steps using these EXACT builds, otherwise it will soft brick the E3000.
1. Start with a hard reset, then load from the GUI (Admin->Firmware Upgrade):
2. K2.6_21676_mini_e3000, wait 5 minutes, hard reset, then load from the GUI:
3. K2.6_21676_mega_nv60K, wait 5 minutes, hard reset, then load from the GUI:
4. K3.x_21676_mega_nv60K, wait 5 minutes, hard reset
5. Now any newer K3.x_mega build can be flashed from the GUI (use the trailed build for recent builds)
Is this up here EXACTLY what I have to follow?? I have read that if I wait more then 5 minutes when it says so, it's even better, right?
For making the hard reset on the E3000, should I follow EXACTLY what it is written in the Hard Reset (aka 30/30/30 reset) paragraph down here in the Hard Reset wiki?? I don't want to screw things up misunderstanding the correct Hard Reset procedure for my router...
Quote:
Hard Reset (aka 30/30/30 reset) Note: This should only be done on older routers. On newer routers, ex: Asus N66U, this will put them in recovery mode instead.
The following procedure will clear out the NVRAM and set dd-wrt back to default values:
- With the unit powered on, press and hold the reset button on back of unit for 30 seconds
- Without releasing the reset button, unplug the unit and hold reset for another 30 seconds
- Plug the unit back in STILL holding the reset button a final 30 seconds (please note that this step can put Asus devices into recovery mode...see note below!)
This procedure should be done BEFORE and AFTER every firmware upgrade/downgrade.
Do not use configuration restore if you change firmware builds (different svn build numbers).
[NOTE] - For Asus units, the standard 30/30/30 method will reset the router but you will need to use the Restore button followed by a Power cycle. The only exception (so far) is the RT-N16 model, follow the same method as stated above but use the WPS button instead of the Restore button. If all else fails to reset you can also do it by command line (all units). Login to the router via telnet/ssh and issue the command "erase nvram". This will reset the nvram partition to defaults for this Make of router.....redhawk
Regarding the 35531 firmware version you say to upload at the end...why that? Isn't the K3.x_21676_mega_nv60K enough?
If NO, can you tell me which version of 35531 from those you linked me should I install and WHY??
Regarding the configuration of the E3000, saying "set one of the radio's in client bridge mode to connect to your main network: https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged" and then "Set the other radio at default AP and clients connect to that radio.", and looking at the link here, I read that I must respect some connections rules dividing some devices to connect via cable and other via wireless connections.
Talking about my situation, I am forced to have the Linksys router connected to the main house router/modem via wi-fi, and BOTH routers to be able ALSO to give lan and internet connection using wi-fi.
Plus to this, I should be able to connect 2 devices to the Linksys using an ethernet cable as one is the main desktop PC, and the other is a NAS.
Plus to this, I'd like to BE ABLE to force a wi-fi device to connect ONLY to the Linksys or ONLY to the main house router/modem as it will depend on room location.
Will I be able to do so with the E3000??
Here an image of what I need to do in my home. I've used and edited the image I've found in the Client Bridge wiki:
Reading at the different Linksys alternative modes, I think I should go for the Repeater mode.
I think it would be enough for the devices connected to the Linksys router to see one another in Windows Network, and in this way I'll have DHCP assign IP over the devices automatically without the need to assign static IP to them.
Hard reset is indeed 30/30/30 for these old routers.
Before updating do a soft reset via the GUI, after updating a hard reset.
The repeater bridge is often flawed in DDWRT (probably due to MAC address problems and hanging ebtables) and, as you have dual radio's, you do not need it.
Client bridge is als one network/subnet but you dedicate one radio to the bridge.
That is why you can better use a client bridge instead of a repeater bridge.
Only caveat is the range of the 5 GHZ radio, preferably you should use that for the bridge but 5 GHZ range is much less so that could pose a problem _________________ Routers:Netgear R7000, R6400v1, R6400v2, EA6900 (XvortexCFE), E2000, E1200v1, WRT54GS v1.
Install guide R6400v2, R6700v3,XR300:https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=316399 Install guide R7800/XR500:https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=320614 Forum Guide Lines (important read):https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=324087
Hard reset is indeed 30/30/30 for these old routers.
Before updating do a soft reset via the GUI, after updating a hard reset.
The repeater bridge is often flawed in DDWRT (probably due to MAC address problems and hanging ebtables) and, as you have dual radio's, you do not need it.
Client bridge is als one network/subnet but you dedicate one radio to the bridge.
That is why you can better use a client bridge instead of a repeater bridge.
Only caveat is the range of the 5 GHZ radio, preferably you should use that for the bridge but 5 GHZ range is much less so that could pose a problem
About the Soft Reset, should I do it just before each of the five steps mentioned in the wiki??
About what you say about the dual frequency and that the Client Bridge should be better and ok for me, you say that should be better to dedicate the 5GHz frequency for the bridge bridge between the two routers, and the 2.4GHz for all the connection of all my wireless devices as shown in my image attached up here??
If so, will 12 linear meters with no obstacles be too many for a 5GHz bridge?
How can I check the bridge stability and connection so to verify if the 5GHz frequency is enough??
About the Soft Reset, should I do it just before each of the five steps mentioned in the wiki??
Yes
Quote:
About what you say about the dual frequency and that the Client Bridge should be better and ok for me, you say that should be better to dedicate the 5GHz frequency for the bridge bridge between the two routers, and the 2.4GHz for all the connection of all my wireless devices as shown in my image attached up here??
If so, will 12 linear meters with no obstacles be too many for a 5GHz bridge?
Yes 5 GHZ for client bridge should be ok
Quote:
How can I check the bridge stability and connection so to verify if the 5GHz frequency is enough??
I have set the 5GHz Wireless network as the ClientBridge between the house router/modem and the E3000, and the 2,4GHz network for my laptop (testing this for now).
I have some questions:
1) As I had set the 5GHz Wireless network in the E3000 with same network name as the main home router/modem, is it for this reason that I can't see other then only one Wi-Fi network with that precise name in the list of the available Wi-Fi in my devices??
2) When I connect to that network, do I connect to the main router/modem of the house that has originally that name, or do I connect randomly to either that one or the E3000 depending on Wireless strength??
3) I have set the 2,4GHz Wireless network of the E3000 using a different name then the one used for the 5GHz network (and so also different from the main Wireless network that I have in my house that comes from the main router/modem). Is this the only way in having an "extended wireless" using a DD-WRT router?? I mean...is it only possible to have a second wireless network or is it also possible to have it maned as the main wireless so to have my wireless devices decide by their own on which to connect basing on the wireless strength?)
4) ....or to have that I was supposed to set as a Repeater and so end up with an unstable wireless network as you guys say?? In other words, is having a second wireless network named differently the only way to have a stable and powerful wi-fi extender??
5) How is it possible to test the wireless connection between the two routers without using a device connected to it?? Is it possible to use Telnet to make a speed-test to the other router and even outside in the internet without using an external device??
6) In 5) I ask such as using my laptop and test both Wi-Fi connections, with the main router/modem and then with the E3000, I have better download/upload results connecting directly to the main house router/modem, even if the wi-fi connection is poor, and with the E3000 I have less download/upload speed but with excellent wi-fi connection. Is this normal?!??? Speed test is someting like 19Mb in DL and 12Mb in UP with the main router and having bad wi-fi, while with the E3000 I have excellent wi-fi and get a 15Mb in DL and 11Mb in UP
7) Should I set the home router/modem to force at "only 5GHz" the connection to the MAC address of the E3000 that I see from inside the DD-WRT firmware being the interface of the 5GHz wireless connection??? Isn't it necessary?? Without it, theoretically the main house router could try to give it also the 2,4GHz wireless network.... Isn't it something to avoid??
Joined: 18 Mar 2014 Posts: 12923 Location: Netherlands
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 9:36 Post subject:
As this is a client bridge the 5 GHz which you are connected to is not repeated so you only see one 5 GHz radio which is from your main router
You can connect to what ever router you like, for debug purposes you use different names for each radio so that you can see to what radio you are connecting.
When everything works you can have the same name and password
You let the client decide to what radio they want to connect to (they usually connect to the strongest, however they keep connected until the signal is lost. Unfortunately you can not set a minimum threshold for the radio signal where the connection is cut off so to force roaming)
Throughput is often less when an extra wireless hop is introduced, the setup you currently have is probably the best, of course you have to make sure that the wireless channels are set as far apart as possible and do not interfere with neigbouring channels. I use Wifi Analyzer (an android app) on my phone to walk through my house and see where interference is.
Speed testing is best done with a laptop and DSLreports.com. The largest firmware builds have iperf3 included I doubt that is the case for your E3000
As this is a client bridge the 5 GHz which you are connected to is not repeated so you only see one 5 GHz radio which is from your main router
You can connect to what ever router you like, for debug purposes you use different names for each radio so that you can see to what radio you are connecting.
When everything works you can have the same name and password
You let the client decide to what radio they want to connect to (they usually connect to the strongest, however they keep connected until the signal is lost. Unfortunately you can not set a minimum threshold for the radio signal where the connection is cut off so to force roaming)
Throughput is often less when an extra wireless hop is introduced, the setup you currently have is probably the best, of course you have to make sure that the wireless channels are set as far apart as possible and do not interfere with neigbouring channels. I use Wifi Analyzer (an android app) on my phone to walk through my house and see where interference is.
Speed testing is best done with a laptop and DSLreports.com. The largest firmware builds have iperf3 included I doubt that is the case for your E3000
As you are using the E3000 as a client bridge for its 5 GHZ then only this radio can connect to your main router
Thank you very much for your message.
I am still debugging, but I think I could not set same name for both routers as the main router is still enough strong to grab connections from my laptops.
Indeed the two laptops are the main problems at the moment, as the are located in a room behind a bathroom that blocks almost 70% of the wi-fi from the main router, causing also some network drop....but not still blind enough to be ok in setting both routers with same name and being sure that the two laptops will hook the E3000 at each boot!!!
I have a strange behavior with one laptop at the moment, my personal laptop! I am connected as the other laptop, but I can't surf as well as the other laptop!!!
I often get a blank page in browser telling me that there is no internet connection.
I have tried to set the DNS in the E3000 with the IP as the main router (main instructions in wiki tells not to set with nothing and to set with that IP only if we have issues...) but nothing changed...and the other laptop is working like a charm!!!
I have a Lenovo Yoga500 and the other laptop is still a Lenovo but a super old version which I don't even remember its name!!! If it's important, I'll retrieve it later.
Is it about the frequencies you mention?? I have the same Android app as you!!
What do you mean with " of course you have to make sure that the wireless channels are set as far apart as possible and do not interfere with neigbouring channels. I use Wifi Analyzer (an android app) on my phone to walk through my house and see where interference is."
I have both router set with the 2,4GHz channel set the same to Channel 6.
Do I have to check the best channel in my house and set both the same as that Channel that I find, or should I do the same but assigning two different channels one from each other, and assigning to each the best one that I get from WiFi Analyzer??
If this is not the case for resolving my issue to my Laptop...what am I missing for these inconsistencies of signal??
Joined: 18 Mar 2014 Posts: 12923 Location: Netherlands
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 16:16 Post subject:
Routers have to use different 2.4 GHz channels.
If there is no interference from neigbours set one router at channel 1 and the other at 11, that way the routers do not interfere with each other, but if you have to consider neigbours then check for free channels with Wifi analyser and choose the best but always keep channels from both routers as far apart as possible.