Netgear WNDR3300

From DD-WRT Wiki

Jump to: navigation, search

Contents


This is a work in progress! Credits to many posters in the various WNDR3300 threads as some material here is cut and pasted. Note that most of the information posted here is valid as of 02/01/2010.


[edit] Threads or Wiki entries of interest

[edit] Common questions

[edit] Can I use NEWD or NEWD2 builds?

  1. In general it has been recommended to stay with NEWD builds for most users as of Feb 2010.
  2. Both builds can support 802.11n on the routers.
  3. If you need to use both radios (wl0 and wl1), you should stay with NEWD builds.
  4. NEWD2 has newer wireless drivers for Broadcom based routers that support 11n and posts on the forum indicate a performance advantage when using N. However, it appears you lose the ability to use the wl1 radio on these builds:
    • reference wiki entry: NEWD2_Support_on_some_models (if this changes, someone should update this item)
    • be sure to research if it is still appropriate to use NEWD2 releases as DD-WRT is constantly evolving with updates

[Update As of 2011 Jan 7th] I believe the wl1 issue on NEWD2 has been fixed since 13491, according to the post by redhawk0. http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=63948

[edit] There are a gazillion different build versions. Which ones can I use?

  1. Remember this router has a 4mbit flash chip. You can use most of the "std" (standard/generic) or "mini" builds and most of their sub variants from brainslayer or eko. *NEVER* use any of the micro or mega builds on this router - you will either neuter or brick it.
    1. It is now being reported that .bin files must be smaller than approximately 3648 KiB (3735552 bytes) in size; otherwise, they will fail to flash. This means that Brainslayer builds released since about December 2009 will likely be too large.
  2. If you are still using the factory Netgear firmware, there really is only one initial firmware you can load first. After that, you can load other certain versions. See the separate section on flashing the WNDR3300 further down in this wiki entry.
  3. WARNING! Even though the builds listed are classified as known to work, some versions (old and new) may not load due to the actual firmware bin file size. Please see the FLASHING section of this entry for more information.
  4. If you like the brainslayer builds (search the wiki about the specific differences),
    1. dd-wrt.v24_std_generic.bin
      • suggested for most users as it has all the standard options included
    2. dd-wrt.v24_nokaid_generic.bin
      • for those that do not need xbox/kaid support and to save a little space on the flash
  5. If you like eko builds, suggestions are:
    1. NEWD_std-nokaid.bin
      • NEWD builds for users who do not need xbox/kaid but like to have all of the other standard options. This will also save some space on your flash if you want to use jffs
    2. NEWD_std-nokaid_nohotspot_nostor.bin
      • NEWD builds for users who do not need xbox, hotspot or external/CIFS storage options to save space on your flash. This build leaves the most free flash space for JFFS in standard releases without having to step down to mini builds.
    3. NEWD_openvpn_jffs_small.bin
      • Similar to the std nokaid_nohotspot_nostor version but with JFFS and OpenVPN support

[edit] I see builds for K24 and K26. What are the differences?

  1. This indicates the Linux kernel version - K24 is v2.4 and K26 is v2.6.
  2. DD-WRT has been traditionally built on the K24 platform and it is generally recommended that users stay K24 for the immediate future.
  3. Starting ~late 2009, a movement has encouraged migrating DD-WRT to the more modern 2.6 kernel, but it is not yet considered as stable. Also: only certain recent routers will be able to support these versions.
    1. If you have time and are will to help test these K26 versions, please do!
      • WARNING! Note that you should be an "advanced user" of DD-WRT if you plan to try K26 builds. As of Feb 2010, the possibility exists that some K26 builds may brick your router and require serial console access to recover. If you do not know what that means, DO NOT TRY the K26 builds.
    2. These threads have additional information:
      1. K26 Build Supported Router List
      2. WNDR3300 13575M NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko

[Updated as of 2011 Jan 7th] 14205 mini NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko has also been tested successful by raingate back in 2010 May. I believe many later builds should work or partially work as well. Again, don't try untested K26 version without knowing how to unbrick.

[edit] The router is advertised as having dual radio support. What are my options on using them?

  1. the main wireless radio dubbed "wl0" in DD-WRT supports two wireless bands: 2.4GHz *or* 5GHz (or disable it). You can pick from the following configuration for the wl0 radio:
    1. Disabled: radio is powered off
    2. Mixed: supporting 802.11b/g (11mpbs and 54mbps on the 2.4GHz band)
    3. B only: supporting 802.11b (11mbps on the 2.4GHz band)
    4. G only: supporting 802.11g (54mbps on the 2.4GHz band)
    5. N only-2.4: supporting 802.11n (up to 130mbps on the 2.4GHz band depending on the channel and width you pick)
    6. A only: supporting 802.11a (54mbps on the 5GHz band)
    7. NA-Mixed: supporting 802.11a and 802.11n (standard 54mbps *and* up to 270mbps on the 5GHz band depending on the channel and width you pick)
    8. N only-5: supporting 802.11n (up to 270mbps on the 5GHz band depending on the channel and width you pick)
  2. secondary wireless radio dubbed "wl1" in DD-WRT supports only one band: 2.4GHz (or disable it)
    1. Disabled: radio is powered off
    2. Mixed: supporting 802.11b/g (11mpbs and 54mbps on the 2.4GHz band)
    3. B only: supporting 802.11g (11mbps on the 2.4GHz band)
    4. G only: supporting 802.11g (54mbps on the 2.4GHz band)

[edit] There are many posts about stability. What about it?

  1. There are MANY users running this router in a variety of different environments and most have no or minimal issues. To be fair, some versions of DD-WRT have been better than others. However, the most recent firmware revisions have been stable in most typical setups. Exotic setups, like using WDS and client bridging, require additional care that may be discussed in other sections of this wiki entry.
  2. Many posts with problems can be traced to not fully completing the flashing procedures - specifically the reset handling.
  3. If your WAN port is dropping connections - this is not normal and would require troubleshooting that may generally apply to any router running DD-WRT
  4. If the wireless connections are not stable (eg, regularly drops connections), there are any number of reasons for this that MAY NOT BE related to this router or DD-WRT itself.
  5. I've tried all sorts of things and it still is not "stable"! This does not mean the refurb unit you bought from a link on a deal site is bad. Please review potential sections like power supply information, spend time and read through the various forum posts as someone may have had your issue before asking for help.

[edit] What kind of performance can I get from N on this router?

  1. Some users have performed iperf testing. Results indicate N over 5GHz looks very reasonable depending on the configuration and surrounding environment. Watch for future separate section in this wiki entry for benchmark information.
  2. Remember that this router, by default, has internal antennas and that affects performance greatly for either band, but especially for N over 5GHz.


[edit] Installing ("Flashing") dd-wrt on the WNDR3300

(note to users, please edit this section for any additions or corrections)

[edit] Required preparation

  1. Researching what you are doing before you blindly flash with any version of dd-wrt
  2. Read "the Peacock Thread" before reading the rest of the wiki or asking for help in the forums.
  3. Download the desired firmware. For initial flashing use ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/V24_TNG/svn12548/dd-wrt.v24-12548_NEWD_mini_wndr3300.chk
    • For upgrading to a different firmware once dd-wrt is installed, the sticky "Firmware Recommendations" post should be reviewed.
    • Review the firmware file size you plan to use - it should be under ~3648kb
      • Although the router has 4mb of flash, no one has defined the maximum firmware size you can use. Based on the OpenWRT wiki, the max you can load should be 3735552 bytes or about 3648kb (the available partition size for linux and rootfs combined which equal what the firmware is). Some routers may have larger flashable space for firmware, however, the WNDR3300 is slightly smaller than other 4mbit Broadcom units due to the flash partitioning from the manufacturer
      • Trying to load a larger *.bin will fail and the router will remain in TFTP recovery mode. You can then load another smaller bin file.
      • e.g. std-generic.bin files 12/2009-02/2010 are at least 30k too large to load
    • For first time installs over the Netgear firmware, use the special dd-wrt "trailed" firmware package (*.chk file) for this router. (note: avoid the 12-28-09 r13525 brainslayer chk build, which has a known bug). Use ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/V24_TNG/svn12548/dd-wrt.v24-12548_NEWD_mini_wndr3300.chk instead
  4. Do a 30/30/30 reset on router

[edit] First time install (for devices running the Netgear firmware)

  1. After performing the required preparation steps listed above...
  2. All firmware updates should be performed from a wired ethernet (not wireless) connection. The router should be connected on one of the four available ethernet ports (not the WAN port) and end in your computer's network interface.
  3. Set a static IP address on your computer
    • IP address: 192.168.1.2
    • subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
    • gateway: 192.168.1.1
  4. Log in to the Netgear Web UI. If you are running a Microsoft Windows OS, it is recommended you use Internet Explorer to perform the initial firmware upgrade to DD-WRT. You can use any other browser thereafter. Then inside the Netgear Web UI
    1. Click on "Router Upgrade" in the LEFT navigation side bar
    2. Click on "Browse..." and select the .chk file firmware you wish to load or manually type in the filename
    3. Click on "Upload"
    4. You will be prompted to "Continue? All existing Internet connections will be terminated" - click "OK".
    5. You will see the following prompt:
      Router Upgrade
      Warning! You are trying to upload a world wide firmware which is different from the NA firmware you had.
      Do you still want to continue?
      Current Version V1.0.XX_1.0.XXNA
      Uploaded Version V1.0.14_1.0.14
      • Where XX is a version number (typically 29 for refurbs, 45 for fresh retail models)
      • Ignore the Uploaded Version "V1.0.14_1.0.14" string, this is just the version the original DD-WRT chk file uses so the Netgear firmware will accept the file.
    6. Click on "Yes" to initiate the update.
  5. You will see the following message:
    Note:It will take about 1.5 minutes for firmware upgrade.
    Please don't turn off the power or press reset button.
  6. WAIT until the Power LED stops flashing and allow the router to reboot. BE SURE YOU ALLOW SUFFICIENT TIME FOR THE PROCESS TO COMPLETE. Follow appropriate recommendations in the Peacock thread.
  7. If the Power LED flashes for >10-15 minutes, something is probably wrong. Review how to revert back to a factory firmware and try another .chk file.

[edit] Upgrading to a newer / different dd-wrt build

  1. After performing the required preparation steps listed above...
  2. Point the firmware upgrade to the file you downloaded
    1. As of 2/1/2010, it is suggested to use only NEWD K24 builds until sufficient testing/vetting of the K26 builds has passed. If you are comfortable enough using DD-WRT (eg, you are an advanced user who knows how to use serial TTL to unbrick a router), the K26 builds need more testers
  3. Perform the update and allow sufficient time to complete

[edit] Required followup steps

These steps are important to help clear old settings and provide some level of stability

  1. Strongly recommended: Do a 30/30/30 reset on router
  2. Also strongly recommended: do a full power cycle after the 30/30/30 reset
  3. If you just upgraded from the Netgear original firmware, you can now re-flash with any specific DD-WRT version/variant you require

[edit] Troubleshooting

- If you brick it (green power light keeps blinking), unbricking is easy. Just use tftp to upload above .chk or factory firmware. (tftp info here)

If you need additional info WNDR3300 is discussed here.

Reversion

Reversion through dd-wrt Firmware Upgrade gui is located here

[edit] Reverting / recovery tftp mode

If you have DD-WRT installed and need to re-install the Netgear firmware for some reason, or just put the router in to tftp acceptance mode...

  1. ssh or telnet to the router
  2. enter the following command at the shell prompt (this effectively deletes the OS causing the router to go in to recovery mode on the next reboot/power cycle):
    • "mtd erase linux"
  3. you should see a message similar to:
    • Unlocking linux ...
      Erasing linux ...
  4. wait until you are returned back to the shell prompt
  5. power cycle the router
  6. allow the router to finish booting (the Power LED will be lit solid for 10-15 seconds)
  7. there after the Power LED should be flashing
  8. you should be able to ping the router IP, generally 192.168.1.1
  9. if you get a ping response the router is in tftp recovery mode
  10. you should now be able to tftp an appropriate *.chk file to the router
    • you can upload either an original Netgear firmware OR a known working DD-WRT chk file for this router


  • This wiki entry does NOT cover how to use tftp.
    • There are plenty of other entries and forum posts that cover this topic.
    • A good reference: TFTP Flash for information about this tool.


Also on a side note, i would suggest instead of "mtd erase linux" that you use "erase linux" (no quotes) as the mtd is leaving the 3300 in a perpetual state of tftp mode -buddee

[edit] Netgear Firmware Recovery Utility

If flashing the router with tftp is unsuccessful, and you have a flashing power light with a ping response of TTL=100, the unit may still be recoverable using the Netgear Firmware Recovery Utility.

  • This utility may be used in other circumstances, but I have only tested it under the above conditions.
  1. Do a 30/30/30 reset.
  2. Set a static IP for your computer's NIC, i.e. IP 192.168.1.2, gateway 192.168.1.1
  3. Connect your computer to the router with a network cable.
  4. Verify power light on the router is flashing slowly.
  5. Open a command prompt and ping 192.168.1.1. You should receive a response of TTL=100.
  6. Start the Autorun.exe application in this download from Netgear's site: ftp://downloads.netgear.com/files/WNDR3300_230-10591-04v2.3.zip
  7. Select the "Support Software" option, then "Firmware Recovery Utility" to launch the recovery application.
  8. Follow the prompts while the utility is running. Be patient, the utility takes a long time to run. Your network adapter will appear to be disconnected during part of the process.
  9. Your router should now be working again after the utility is finished running.
  10. Follow the instructions under "Flashing WNDR3300" to flash 3rd party firmware again.

[edit] JTAG / Serial information

[edit] Does this router support JTAG?

  • No
  • The mounted pin header on the PCB is for the dome LEDs. Do not use this for JTAG or serial TTL.
  • If your unit has another header mounted next to the right of the dome LED header, that is for serial TTL console.

[edit] Does this router support serial TTL console?

  • Yes
  • Do not hook up your serial cable/wiring to the header used for the dome LEDs
  • The serial connectors (JP1) are next to the dome LED header. Most production/refurb units will not have a pin header mounted on the PCB for the serial connections (probably to save manufacturing costs)
  • The FCC photos of the internals show a header for both the dome LED and serial port
  • Reference: OpenWRT WNDR3300 wiki
  • Reference thread for a photo with the pin outs: WNDR3300 serial pinouts
  • The pin outs are as follows:
    1. Pin 1 = 3.3V (towards the front of the router and should have "1" silk screened near the pin)
    2. Pin 2 = RXD
    3. Pin 3 = n/c
    4. Pin 4 = n/c
    5. Pin 5 = TXD
    6. Pin 6 = GND (towards the rear of the PCB/back of router)
  • JP1 = 3.3v TTL Serial, 115200/8/N, 1 row of six pins
  • Further instructions: InfoDepot Wiki - Netgear WNDR3300
  • Note: This wiki entry does not discuss how to use or the equipment necessary for serial TTL. For more on this topic, try this thread: Everything you Ever Wanted to know about Serial - TTL

[edit] Configuration suggestions

For now here are some threads that discuss possible configuration settings for new users:

  1. Netgear WNDR3300 HELP
  2. How to set up wireless WNDR3300?
  3. Netgear Wndr3300 CPU loading problems slow wireless


For more advanced users, we will be posting more information shortly. eg, WDS and client bridge concerns


[edit] VLAN Support

See VLAN Support.

[edit] Pin Short Recovery

Works -- short pins 16 & 17 while plugging in the power cable. Ping constantly with 'ping -t -w 1 192.168.1.1', and when you start to see TTL=100, remove the short and tftp a basic *.chk file to the router. Give it a few mins to figure out what happened, and hopefully the WLAN lights should come back on. If you're still pinging, things are good if you see a TTL=64, DD-WRT's signature.

Per usual, please read the Peacock Thread before attempting this.


[edit] Model and Revision Differences

  • There is only one known version of this model.
  • The model WNDR3300-100NAR is simply a refurbished WNDR3300 with the serial number removed from the bottom label on the unit.
  • As of 2/1/2010, units bought in 2009 and 2010 opened up by one user had "Rev 1" etched on the PCB.
  • If there are other revisions or you can confirm this information, please update this thread.

[edit] Power supply information

Initial refurbs sold in 2008 and early 2009 had potential issues with their power supplies. This caused stability issues with the routers.

Most recent models (new and refurbs from mid 2009 on wards) come with a switching power supply:

  • voltage: 12 vDC
  • amp: 1500mA
  • plug size:
    • 2.1mm ID (confirmed with digital caliper)
    • 5.5mm OD (confirmed with digital caliper)
    • Center=Positive (center pin)
    • Shield=Negative
  • kill-a-watt reported power usage:
    • 3 watts on initial boot up or with all radios disabled (idle)
    • 5 watts with just one radio (with default TX power) - idle
    • 6 watts with both radios (with default TX power on each radio) - idle


Power supplies for this router are manufactured by two vendors (according to FCC information and based on purchases from 2009 and 2010):

  • DVE - units from this manufacturer have been known to be bad or inconsistent from the early batches of routers sold in 2008 to mid 2009. Please read the main support thread for more information about this.
  • ITE


It has been recommended to go with a non-switching transformer for those wanting to increase the power to the radios beyond the default mW per radio. However, some have found it difficult to find such power supplies (transformer based above 1500mA). A suggestion is to use a *quality* regulated 12vdc 2000mA (or higher amperage) switching power supply. If you believe to have stability issues that a 30/30/30 reset + full power cycle may not be not solving... try another power supply if you have one available.


Be sure to review the additional discussions links in the Peacock and main support thread regarding power supplies and bad capacitors. There have been no known reports regarding the router itself suffering from bad capacitors.


[edit] Antenna (internal and external) information

[edit] Internal antennas

  1. Netgear advertises the router with 8 internal antennas. While this is true in the sense there are eight antennas etched on the PCB, even the official FCC information lists only 5 active antennas.
  2. three of the five active antennas are for the wl0 radio (supporting 2.4GHz or 5GHz bands)
  3. the remaining two of the five active antennas are used for the wl1 radio (supporting only the 2.4GHz band)

[edit] External antennas

  1. the router does not have any external antennas without performing some kind of modification that would result in voiding your factory warranty
  2. Current thread topic: How to add external. ant
  3. Some users have parts on order from digikey.com to follow twinmos on adding external antennas. We will update this section with the specific part numbers (it is buried in the topic thread) later.
  4. The Hirose connectors on the PCB are MS-156 RF test switches. There are NO CHEAP solutions currently available to convert/adapt to SMA type cabling and antennas. According to digikey.com, the cheapest solution is a locking MS-156 to SMA adapter which is about $29USD per switch. You need at least 3 of these for the WL0 radio and 2 more for the WL1 radio.
    • It is recommended to either do the pigtail mod or install Hirose u.fl pads like twinmos did in the thread.


[edit] 5GHz (and N over 5GHz) information

(work in progress)

The primary advantage some users of this router believe is the ability to use 802.11n over the less crowded 5ghz band. However, there are many considerations. We will try to list some of those here over time.

  1. from a forum post, read this article about Improve Wi-Fi Performance in the 5 GHz Band
  2. as noted several times in this wiki entry, the internal antennas reduce the potential range of using the 5Ghz band on this router. It is still usable for many depending on router placement and possible usage requirements.


How do I get "270 mpbs" 802.11n?

  1. you can only obtain this advertised connection speed on the wl0 radio through the 5GHz band (N only-5). The 2.4ghz band on this specific router only supports 20mhz wide for a maximum of "130 mbps" connection speeds.
  2. you need to set your channel width to 40mhz. If you set to 20mhz you'll get the 130 mpbs rated connection speed.
  3. it is recommended to NOT set the channel and/or channel width to AUTO as it may not guarantee that the router will select a channel or width your wireless NIC or WDS/bridge may support.
  4. note that although the router and/or your wireless NIC may say connected at 270 mbps (for 40mhz channel width users) or 130 mpbs (for 20mhz users on either the 2.4GHz or 5GHz band)... THAT DOES NOT MEAN YOU WILL GET THOSE ACTUAL TRANSFER SPEEDS IN REAL WORLD USAGE. If you doubt that, read the article above about 5GHz performance and use google to learn why.


[edit] LED information

[edit] Front LEDs

  1. Can I control the front LEDs?
    1. it does not appear that end user gpio LED access is allowed via the /sbin/gpio binary
    2. see separate section on known GPIO information
  2. What do the front LEDs mean and how do they indicate status?
    1. reference WNDR3300 one activity LED flashes infrequently (credit for partial paste for below)
      • Power (not directly labeled) - The power light blinks when it is starting up or the restore factory settings button is pressed.
      • 2.4GHz Mode - This light will blink if there are data transmitted wirelessly in this mode
      • 5 GHz Mode - This light will blink if there are data transmitted wirelessly in this mode
      • Internet (not directly labeled, looks like an lower case "i")- This light will blink if an IP address has been received and data is being transmitted and received
      • LAN 1-4 (labeled with actual numbers "1" "2" "3" and "4") - This will blink if there is traffic or data passing on this port.

[edit] Dome LEDs

  1. How are the dome LEDs handled?
    1. the original Netgear firmware flashed the dome lights based on various activities on the wireless radios, etc.
    2. DD-WRT automatically turns off the dome lights on boot up with code changes since builds around Nov 2008
      1. reference Changeset 10994
  2. Can I control the dome LEDs?
    1. it does not appear that access to the dome lights are easily exposed to end users
    2. reference thread: WNDR3300 Dome Lights
  3. What if the dome LEDs come back on after I've flashed with a good known version of DD-WRT?
    • back up your settings using the hardware independent backup script (search the wiki and forums)
    • try performing a full 30/30/30 reset per Peacock, and do a full power cycle
    • if the dome does not turn off, either your unit is going bad or you can physically unplug the ribbon cable inside the unit to permanently disable it


[edit] GPIO information

(credit to original poster from main support thread: rafale12)

Known GPIO pin support:

  • gpio 0: using it crashes router
  • gpio 1: 01, cannot change it with disable. Suspect WPS (top orb related)
  • gpio 2: constantly changing: 00/01/00 so WAN or LAN
  • gpio 3: 00 ??
  • gpio 4: 00 ??
  • gpio 5: powerled
  • gpio 6: 01 disabling seems to be a reset to default.
  • gpio 7: 01 ??
  • gpio 8: 00 ??


[edit] Hardware information

  1. Official FCC information